Sunday Rescue

As I got back to the dock in the skiff from the cabin Sunday morning, I saw a text message from Brian, who is up here with the fleet from Coffman Cove to fish for DIPAC chum salmon for the first time.   He said to call him as Doug was broke down.  Turns out Doug needed a water pump, so I called OReilys, who incredibly had one.  Doug had planned to either get the part flown down from Juneau or get it up from Petersburg on a tender.  I told them I’d go buy it and be down with it in my skiff in a couple hours.  I trailered my boat at North Douglas, drove to the house, grabbed the electric car and drove out for the part.  I ordered them a pizza too, which I picked up on my way back to the house.  I figured his deckhand would need something to eat watching the captain do a parts replacement.
As I got ready to drive to the Douglas Boat Harbor ramp it hit me: here’s free transport for stuff to our place in Craig.  So into the skiff went the toyo heater, a double burner electric hot plate and a couple shovels I bought at Salvation Army, and a folded-up Alaska map on poster board.  I launched the boat at Douglas.  There was a 1 foot chop on the water.  I headed down Gastineau Channel, and as I got past Salisbury Point I could see the gill netters lined up at the fishing district line to fish near Point Bishop.  Other gill netters were fishing all down Stephens Passage.   About an 45 minutes later,  as I neared Taku Harbor, I thought I saw Brian’s boat near mainland shore, but thought I’d get the part to Doug to get him going, then find Brian on the way back.
Doug was all smiles as I came into the dock.  When he looked at the picture of the part on the box, he immediately said – uh oh, this doesn’t look like it.  But I said don’t worry, the part inside doesn’t look like that.  Doug had called me on his sat phone at the parts store and described the part he needed to compare with the one I was buying, and he was relieved when he opened the box to see the new one matched the old one.  The water pump for his Cummins diesel is surprisingly small and only has a rubber gasket to seal it – no fiber gasket and a ton of gasket dope like my old Ford truck diesel or Detroit 453 diesel in the Dutch Master.  I handed him the pizza, and asked if he could take my items to Craig, and of course he said sure. Plus he had lots of room.  So I helped the deckhand with the items and we stashed them in his hold.
It took 19 minutes to get the part in and the coolant water replaced and the engine fired up.  We sat and chatted at the wheelhouse table while the engine came up to temperature.  After about 20 minutes, all looked good, and they were off to fish.  They untied and idled away as I got into my skiff, untied from the dock, and idled behind them.  Doug came out on deck an asked me to stick around.  It was overheating again, and I could hear the engine alarm going off.  There were some tense moments of them drifting back towards the tenders that were anchored up in the harbor as he assessed the situation, but after about 5 minutes, all was well- just an air lock that he bled off or had cleared on it’s own.  He gave me the two thumbs up and I scooted past them, out into Stephens Passage, and headed towards town.
I found Brian about a mile down the beach.  He was all smiles.  His deckhand was a young man who was the grandson of Brian’s friend in Craig who also used to trap with my friend Ken Dunshie in a super cub up out of Fairbanks.  Ken is from my hometown of Bolivar, and went to Alaska in the late 60’s as a teacher.  I stayed with him and his wife my first month in Alaska until I could get a place at a UAF dorm.  The deckhand had his rain gear buttoned right up to his neck and was pitching chum salmon into the fish totes.  They’d had a great first set – and as this was their first set ever up here and they didn’t really know what they were doing – that made it even better.  Already they were glad they’d made the two day run to get up here.  Brian’s friend Mike came over in his boat as I was leaving to say he caught more his first set than he had the whole last opening down in Clarence Strait, and he thanked me for getting Doug, who by now was catching up to me set his net.  He called later in the day and said fishing was good. 
I left them all to their work and had a slight following chop on the way back to town.  I sipped from the coffee in the thermos and thought that I’d be back on the water commercial fishing by this time next year, one way or another.

One Fine Evening

Erik asked me to take some coaches in town for soccer camp on a whale watch tour. There was a coach from Colorado, one from Anchorage, and two were from Central or South America somewhere. As we headed out of Auke Bay, I overheard them saying they’d already been on a whale watch trip. That was kind of a bummer, as I didn’t know if we’d see much or if what we’d see would now be old hat. I’d contacted a co-worker captain to see where the whales were today. The weather was picking up a little, so although I was headed for the west side of Shelter Island, I decided to go up the east side to keep out of the wind.

We ran about half an hour without seeing anything when I saw a puff in the distance. When we got up to the whale, it was a humpback whale lunge feeding right on the shore line. It would curve its body to herd fry (I think) in a school, and then came up under them with mouth wide open to swallow them. The whale seemed within 10 yards of shore, and was right at the surface. As it would curve it’s body to herd the fish, half of its tail would come out of the water, then there would be a swirl, and then up he’d come with his mouth wide open, and gulp. Well, they hadn’t seen this kind of action on the big whale watch boat they’d gone on earlier in the week.

We left this whale after half an hour and went around the north end of the island and headed south again. We saw another whale blow. This whale took several breaths and dove. Her big white tail told me this was Flame, a local favorite because she shows her big beautiful tail on every dive. After 20 minutes with her, we went to a buoy with several sea lions on it, and circled this a few times, before continuing south.

As we came to the south end of the island, we saw black fins coming out of the water- orcas. We came alongside the orcas at about 100 yards, and paced them for awhile. Then they went under and were gone for several minutes. As I looked to my left where they had been, the coaches in the rear yelled in surprise – the orca pod had gone under us and was now right next to the boat on the right side.  Hadn’t seen THAT on their whale watch trip, either!  We admired the orcas for another 20 minutes and then went to check our crab pots. I set them in this spot because it’s convenient, but hadn’t caught squat there in about 5 years. On our way there, we passed a couple Dall’s porpoise. Then an eagle come down to the water and grabbed a fish in its talons. We pulled up to the first crab pot, and got 3 keepers!   Next pot was 2 keepers!  The boys weren’t going home empty handed.  We took off for the dock, where their conversation was all about the whales they’d seen like they’d never imagined and the crab in the bucket. I dropped them off and headed back to the cabin for the night.

This morning I got up early to be down at the beach at 7 am. There was a -4.4 tide at 8:15 am so I wanted to reset my haul out. I screwed 4 auger anchors in a square into the ocean mud, ran a piece of garden hose through their eyes, then ran some gillnet leadline through the garden hose, and tied off the ends of the lead line. To the lead line I tied a piece of abs pipe that had 90 degree fittings on each end. Then I ran my haul out line through the pipe and back up to pulleys on the beach to form a clothes line to which I could tie the boat painter to and haul the line and boat out to deep water, which would save me from anchoring every time and rowing a punt to the beach. Since my boat was dry from the minus tide, I headed back to the cabin and read old Alaska Sportsman magazines and drank a pot of coffee over the next 2 hours while the tide came back in and floated my boat. Then it was back to town and back to work for the afternoon.

Fiddleheadin’

When I got up this morning, the rain had quit, there was fog in the channel, and blue sky above the fog. Emailed the office to say I would be in in the afternoon, grabbed my cork boots and rain pants, stuffed my back pack with my plastic Costco nut jars, unplugged the car, and headed to my fiddlehead honey hole. Saw a couple deer on the way up the mountain. There was fog in the valley, but it looked like it would burn off as I headed across the muskeg. I passed either coyote or wolf scat that was solid deer deer hair as I headed down to the big creek. And a single skunk cabbage flower up in a little bowl of muskeg.

The rain had the creek running a bit high, so could not just cross in my rubber boots and walked down stream till I found a tree that had fallen across the river. Nice to have the corks (spikes) on the boots as I walked across an otherwise slippery log. The fiddleheads I saw down along the creek were already past picking. The devils club buds were pickable along the creek, but as I worked my way up the other side to the mountain side, the buds were too far out to pick. I started to worry I’d waited too long as I broke onto the open mountainside. I saw lots of fiddleheads already up and unfurled. As I looked closer, I saw the young fiddleheads I was looking for coming up alongside the ones already unfurled, and just had to train my eyes to look for the younger shoots. I filled up jar after jar. The fog burned off, and as the sun got higher, the hooters hooted from high up the hill.  It took about an hour to fill up my jars with fiddleheads. There were nettles and twisted stalk among the fiddleheads, but I left those for another day.

After work, I used the magic trick to clean the fiddleheads. Fill a pillow case a third full, tie an overhand knot in the case, and put in the clothes dryer on air fluff for 15 minutes. I put half of what I picked in the pillow case and into the dryer. As I got the second batch ready, I heard the clothes dryer thumping change rhythm.  I opened the door to check and. Uh oh. The knot came untied. The fiddleheads were in the dryer. Everywhere. And remarkably clean. I pulled out the fiddleheads into a bowl, and collected all the chaff I could out of the dryer. There was quite a bit left that was damp and stuck to the dryer drum. So, what’s a guy to do. I turned the clothes dryer back on, with the heat on, and presto.  Five minutes later the chaff had dried and I got the rest out with the vacuum hose. The second batch I tied multiple knots with a shoe string, and that one stayed tied without incident.

For dinner, I sauteed some fiddleheads, and use them and some moose sausage to top a pizza. Not bad.

Hunting in Wartime

I met a third participant of the Vietnam War documentary Hunting in Wartime this weekend.  Royal Hill.  I met him garage saling of all things.  Once you see this movie, you don’t forget the soldiers or their family members that participated in it.  I told him you don’t know me but thank you for participating in the movie.  It’s the most important movie of my life.  He spoke with me for another 15 or 20 minutes.  At first I think he was a little shy that someone recognized him from the movie, but as I spoke about the documentary and it’s effect on me, he warmed up to the conversation.  What I remember most is that he said after he returned from Vietnam, voting became his most important civic duty.  He said he studies every candidate closely to see which had the moral fortitude to do what was right. He doesn’t care what party they represent.   He said war should always be the very last option.  He talked about a recent movie on Iraq, Lone Survivor, which of course I haven’t seen.  He said he had a similar situation in Vietnam where a local kid saved his life and those in his platoon, and the kid was later killed and he still thinks about it. Although it’s not yet, apparently, a national treasure, the movie is playing here on KTOO TV and, I think, on  PBS stations across the country this coming Memorial Day Weekend, so I hope it will continue to draw a following and impact people like it has me.    If you happen to see this blog post, see if the movie is playing on your PBS station and try to be there to watch it.   It equals the PBS Vietnam series, in my opinion, because it’s as grass roots as it gets.

The Greatest Joy

Seems to me there’s not greater joy for the parent of a 5th grader than cub scouts. And by no greater joy, I mean no greater joy than dropping their 5th grader off and knowing they won’t have to see them again for at least 24 hours.

Moms and dads had ear to ear grins dropping off the five boys for their last camp out of their cub scout careers.  None of this hugging like they couldn’t let their little boys go as was the scene when they were 7 year old tiger cub scouts. These boys are almost 12 now and know just about everything. Although this was just an overnight camp out, hopeful moms and dads packed them with extra food and snacks, just in case they wanted to stay an extra week.

Last year, I bought my big hunting pack. Which can pack alot of gear. If you bring a pack that takes a lot of gear, then everyone sees you as the person to pack the food. And the cook stove. And the cookware. And a spare tent. This year, I bought the little pack.

One of the boys (Pyro) was about 20 minutes late for the drop off, which was no big deal. We weren’t in a hurry. We were driving out near the end of the road in Juneau to a trail head for a 2 mile walk into a cabin near the beach. Pyro  noted several times on the way out to the trail that we were going to get into the cabin an hour later than the schedule that was sent out, oblivious to the fact that we were late because we were waiting for him. His mom was extra cheery upon drop off.

After rain and more rain lately, the dark turned to gray when we got out the road, and the rain slacked off and – what do you know – here comes the sun. We hiked into the cabin, which was down hill for about a mile and a half through the rain forest, then a half mile more along boggy terrain alongside a creek and beaver slough.

When we arrived at the cabin, the boys got busy arguing over who was going to get which bunk in the cabin. There’s not much seniority or hierarchy in this bunch. All are in 5th grade, and have been together a good chunk of their lives. They soon agreed that 4 of them would have the ground level bunk, and the snorer (Chainsaw), was banished to the 2nd story loft. Myself and the den leader would sleep on the floor because this is 2018, where the children’s comfort comes first. I miss the old days. It could have been worse.  At first the den leader suggested we sleep outside in tents to give the boys lots of room. Luckily, a worried mother contacted us about a grizzly bear that was seen about a half mile from the cabin at the stream mouth, guarding a cow moose that either died there naturally or that the bear had killed. I contacted a friend at Fish and Game, who said the bear report was 2 weeks old and it would probably be fine, but that got us out of the tents and onto the floor, which was a solid victory for the grownups.

As usual, the first order of business for the boys was to get down to some serious eating. Chainsaw produced a bag of Doritos, and the five scouts made quick work of that. When the boys were rested up from the hike, Chainsaw and Joker went with the den leader to the creek mouth to try some fishing. They were hopeful there might be a few Dolly Varden nosing into the river. The other boys (Pyro, Honest and Pointer) were soon whittling sticks to roast marshmallows.

Pyro started a fire with some fire starter jell, green wet wood, and paper. As the jell burned off and the fire died, the other two lamented that there was no fire to cook their marshmallows. Not one of them headed to the nearby woods in search of dry wood.  It was a lot easier to grouse about the poor fire than work on actually building one. At this point, their moms and dads are channeling to the assistant den leader not to do the fire building that the boys are expecting some adult servant should do, like they expect at home.

It wasn’t that I was on a different channel and couldn’t hear the parents screaming at me telepathically not to do it. It’s just an innate part of my being that if a fire is dying, you gotta revive it. So I gather the dead spruce branches and take off first the little dead outer branches that held the needles, then start breaking the larger main stem branches into pieces, and place them by the fire pit. Then I start blowing at the few coals left in the fire, adding the little branches first, with more blowing to get them to light, and gradually adding larger and larger branches. The fire takes off, and the boys rush in to roast their white confections.

Of course, the fire doesn’t last long, and soon the lamentations of the fire dying start in again. But with my fire starting addiction satisfied, I retreat to my stove on the porch to heat some water for coffee. Sure, I could boil water over the campfire, which I’d have to get going again, but JetBoil is my new bff.

I then thought I better get down to the beach and see what was going on. As I was leaving, Pyro was teaching his Honest and Pointer how to make a rocket by putting heads of matches in tin foil, attaching the tin foil to a toothpick, and then heating up the tin foil. Real-life stuff you don’t learn in a video game.

The beach was about a 1/4 mile from the cabin, and is hidden from view by a bluff. As I crested the small hill and caught sight of Berners Bay, it was a wildlife symphony. Hundreds of sea gulls squawking. Some 50 bald eagles in the air and clustered on the beach. Animated sea lion heads bobbing near the shore. Then I saw not far from the sealions a puff of smoke. Whales. Two of them.  Humpbacks were working along the shore. The herring run was here.  I sat down and enjoyed the scene in the sun and light breeze. Nobody was in sight at the beach. The boys and den leader must be fishing out of sight at the stream mouth. I could have gone down to see how the fishing was going, but that was probably a 1/4 mile or more hike and, well, that WAS where the bear on the moose was last seen. I headed back to the cabin after about 30 minutes of watching the carnival.

When I got back, the three boys had bored of watching the fire fizzle out and were busy building secondary bridges across the small creek alongside the cabin. They found some 2 x 8 planks that – I assumed,  under the don’t ask don’t tell doctrine of non-parental supervision –  weren’t planks from the trail, and were laying them across the little creek next to the cabin, and then bouncing on the plank like a trampoline. Before long, everyone had gone in over their boots and now had wet feet. Pointer, who earns his name by blaming others for his tribulations, tried to blame his wet feet on Honest, who doesn’t have it in his being to break a rule or transgress his brother.  Honest has known Pointer for most of his life so was having none of it.

Before the trip, the den leader made a list of meals we’d need – lunch, dinner, breakfast – for the boys to bring and cook. No surprise that hot dogs were a fan favorite. An 11 year old might not know what is and isn’t healthy for him, but he does know what’s easy to cook. And what meals you can bring that someone else actually cooks. As any good cub scout knows, hot dogs are best cooked on a stick you whittle, over a fire. If only we had  fire. This time hunger compelled action by the 11 year olds, and they got a fire going to cook their hot dogs.  I brought a 1 lb sleeve of breakfast sausage I made a couple days before the trip from Bob’s Yukon River black bear hind quarter, and I cooked some silver dollars of that up 3 at a time in my mess kit frying pan and put them on a plate on the table. They disappeared about as soon as I could dish them out. Good to see a group of hot dog loving boys not afraid to try real food, too. I snuck a few on a bun for my meal before it was all gone so I didn’t have to eat a hot dog.

As darkness set it, you could feel and smell the rain coming. I got the kerosene stove going in the cabin, blew up my sleeping pad, threw a cover over me, made a pillow out of my jacket, and settled in for the night on the floor. The boys settled in for a night at the table next to their bunks. playing a game called something like mad libs. Joker, the class clown of the group, asked the group for a noun or adjective or verb, and  wrote the word called out into blanks that would complete a story. After the sheet was completed, Joker  would read the story.  You couldn’t understand him for much of the story because he was laughing so hard. The boys reused the same nouns over and over again. Balls and fart were popular. As was rectum and pee.  11 years old boys are 11 years old boys. Anywhere in America.

The den leader was on his pad on the floor, too. About an hour into the mad libs, we hear the boys blowing at the table, and see a flicker of light in their faces. The more they blew, the more their faces lit up. Pretty soon, Pyro’s face is really shining. They’d burned tea candles into all liquid, and blew the burning wax all over the table, and now the table was alight. Den leader took his water bottle and doused the fire. Den leader wasn’t thanked for his heroics.  Pointer chastised him for the next 30 minutes for getting water all over everything.

Not long after Pyro’s handiwork, Chainsaw joined us on the floor. He was having no part of sleeping alone up in the loft by himself, even though the other 4 boys told him all the little black specks on the floor up there was chocolate. Too hot up there and too lonely. Chainsaw put his sleeping bag between Den leader and me. Right next to my ear. He wasn’t happy to find out the next day that the chocolates he almost slept in were actually mouse turds.

I got up to pee about every 2 hours like clockwork. Just like at home. I was plenty warm sleeping on the floor with the fire going, even though the windows were open from Pyro’s earlier handiwork. The website for the cabin reservation indicates that a gallon of kerosene per day is sufficient unless it’s really cold out, which it wasn’t. And, we were only heating the cabin overnight. The website lied. The gallon of kerosene I brought in only lasted about 2/3 of the night. Anticipating we’d have heat, I’d just packed a fleece blanket instead of a full sleeping bag. Rookie move. After toughing it out for an hour or two, I started layering up with clothes, and as Den leader and Chainsaw were getting up and dressed for the morning, I caught my second wind and napped on.

The next day was more of the same, but with lots of intermittent rain. Chainsaw and Joker went to the beach with den leader to fish and I stayed with Pointer, Joker and Honest, who continued the marathon of  trampoline bridge. Pointer lost his $65 multi-tool and couldn’t find it anywhere. When den leader returned, Pointer asked him to help look for it. When it still wasn’t found, Pointer blamed den leader for not looking hard enough. As den leader had known Pointer since birth and shared half of Pointer’s DNA, he’d heard this broken record before and soon pulled the needle.

We planned to leave about noon as that’s checkout time. Den leader asked the boys at least five times to sweep up the cabin and pick up any garbage around the cabin to leave the place cleaner than when we arrived. All five boys would sweep or pick up for about 2 minutes, then back to creek bridge trampoline. Den leader laid into them and they came back up from the creek to do another 3 minutes on task. I said “are all 5th graders deaf, or just you five”. Joker said “what?”, and I started to repeat ” Are all 5th graders deaf” when Joker looked up at me with a grin. He got me.

The boys finally got the place cleaned up and all their belongings packed. Pointer never found his knife. We headed back to up the trail to the road. It was a pretty rainy cold day, and I was surprised at all the people hiking out the trail to the beach or wherever they were going. This hiking for fun must be a thing.

We stopped in Auke Bay to get the boys some hot chocolate. Den leader was reminiscent as this was the last meeting of the boys for their den. Next year they’ll be in Boy Scouts. Den leader was kind of misty eyed. The boys were more interested in finding out if they could have a big cookie to go with their hot chocolate.

I left Auke Bay with Chainsaw and Honest. I asked Chainsaw if he felt an ice cream cone coming on at McDonalds, and he didn’t understand. I asked Honest if he felt an ice cream cone coming on, and he surely did. When we pulled into McDonalds, Chainsaw asked what we were doing there.  Honest clued him in about the whole ice cream situation.

I dropped Honest off at his house, and his dad was there with a forced smile, consigned to have him home. Then I dropped Chainsaw off, and he left without saying thank you. His usual goodbye. I headed home contented that all 5 of these boys will remember this when they’re in their 50’s and remember when they had such good friends and life was fun and simple and happy and uncomplicated. Maybe they’ll even miss their parents and their hometown.

Moose complete

I wrapped the rounds of shank meat on the bone I’d cut with reciprocating saw and put the last of the moose meat to bed in the freezer last night. I figured it was about 40 to 50 man hours of work to get the meat off the bone, trimmed, butchered, hamburger meat ground, shanks cut crosswise, the meat vac packed or wrapped, and into the freezer.  We had to get another small freezer and borrow a second to accommodate everything. An education in moose harvesting. I rounded out the end of the auger on the ancient Kleen Kut meat grinder I own, and finished the grinding of deer meat I wanted to do while I was at the moose meat on the Kitchen Aid grinder. Bob B thinks we can fix the auger by welding a bead around the spot for the square end that holds the knife, then grind it out into a square to hold the knife.

I bought a stacking set of cookie cooling racks and making jerky on the woodstove and think they’ll work out great.

Getting a good amount of snow still and the skiing is good on Mendenhall Lake. But days are getting longer and the daytime temperature is above freezing so the snow can’t hold on for long. Shouldn’t be too much longer and the hooters will start to hoot.