Took the bus from Akureyi to Rekyavik today, a 6 hour
ride of which I probably slept for 3 hrs. Narrow
roads wind through the mountain valleys. There were
the famous Iceland horses on farms all along the road.
Each farm seems to consist of a fenced in area of
grassland, with horses on it. I also saw a few cattle
and sheep, but horses seem to be everything unless I
missed something like hogs that were inside. Houses
are simple and very neat. The simple life.

I asked the bus driver what they did with all the
horses, and I couldn´t understand only making a living
owning horses for riding. He said they also are used
for meat, which made alot more sense for making a
living farming.

Essentially, the bus ride was through horse farm
country about all the way here, and few homes at that.
It´s mostly very low vegetation or no vegetation from
the valley right up to the mountain tops, which are
not far apart, creating a very surreal, rural sense of sightseeing.

–
Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

We toured two plants here today. One in Akureyri and
another in a small town of about 1500 people 20 miles
or so from here. Both are modern plants, highly
mechanised. One plant was doing shrimp and the other
cod. In both places, the raw product comes in one end
and a finished product comes out the other end, ready
for market. Very clean, and the workforce looked
dedicated. Pay here is about 13 dollars/hour, similar
to wages paid in the Danvers plant we toured near
Boston, and well below Alaska processing wages.

The plant was not large, but very sophisticated, with
computerized machinery. At the cod plant, fillets
come down a line to a row of women workers, who slice
the fillets into several different cuts. The women
are paid a premium for fast, quality cutting, and some
make an extra 3 to 4 dollars an hour, according to the
tour guide.

The weather was sunny and warmer today with less wind.
After the tour, I took a hard nap, still adjusting
from the 9 hour time change from Alaska. I then took
a walk around town. I ate at Greiffins Restaurant. I
wanted to try something local, so I had the salt cod.
It was steamed, on top of moussed potatoes, and the
that was surrounded by a red wine sauce which
contained some fresh bell peppers. Very, very good.
And service is wonderful here.

Tomorrow, instead of taking the plane back to
Rekyavik, I´m taking the bus. 6 hours through the
countryside that will be spectacular if today´s
weather holds.

Prices are somewhat higher here for goods. Although
it sounds like heating (all geothermal) and
electricity (all hydro) are not expensive. Would be
interesting to see what the total cost of living is,
not just comparing the price of a beer here vs.
Juneau. Lots of land with not lots of people, either,
so I wonder what housing costs are.

–
Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

I joined an Alaska Processor Leadership Institute
through the Univ. of Alaska Seagrant Program last
year. We did HAACP training in Kodiak in April, some
Human Resources training in Anchorage last Oct, and
the culmination and highlight of the program is this
trip to the Boston Seafood Show and Iceland.

The Boston Seafood Show show cases seafood – farmed,
wild, and anything in between – from around the world.
There was shrimp from Louisiana, crab from Virginia,
tilapia from Panama, and hybrid striped bass from
North Carolina. Of course, there was wild salmon from
Alaska and Canada, and farmed salmon from Canada and
Chile. And this is just a partial list.

With the suppliers were also the distributers – people
who take the seafood and do something with it – either
add value and sell it again, or simply move fish on to
someone who does.

For the value added sellers, I saw that seafood in
America is more about the coatings than the seafood
product, for the most part. Shrimp is pretty much
shrimp, but you can distinguish the food product by
what type of breading or batter you place on the
product – batters and coatings, I might add, that are
likely negating much of the benefits of the raw
seafood product.

For a $30 ticket, you can eat seafood all day. I´m
not sure if the ticket is good for one day or all 3,
but either way, it´s well worth it. I sampled
tilapia, shrimp cooked every which way, salmon, smoked
salmon, clams, crab cakes – the food just keeps coming
from open to close, and no one cares if you grab a
piece and move on to the next booth or stop and talk.

The machinery sellers were perhaps the most
interesting to me. Freezers and skinners and slicers
and fillet machines and pin bone removers all are
something I could see getting if we can get enough of
us together to buy one to justify the cost.

We now are in Iceland, up in Akureyri. Today we´ll
take tours of 2 plants. This is quite a place.
People are friendly, but somewhat formal with us here.
My biggest impression so far is that I´ve not see one
really overweight or obese person since I´ve been
here, and I want to know why. And the legend of
beautiful scenery – both landscape and female, are
certainly true.

–
Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

Ranger Dug and I got out at daybreak today (730 am)
and fished our rings again in the same places we were
skunked a few days ago, when the commercial fishery
was still opened. We had crab on most pulls today,
and got about a dozen dungeness and tanner crab before
heading in about 1040 am so I could get home and to
work at noon.

Another beautiful morning, about 35 degrees and with
the sun trying to poke through the high clouds and a
light southeast breeze. No rain, either. Still
caught no male king crab, so we’re going to have to
look around a bit. We also started fishing today at
low tide, just as it started to flood, so maybe that
has something to do with our catch rates, too.

–
Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

After doing well last week crabbing, we went back to
the well again, expecting more of the same success.
We were after dungeness and king crab. The tanner
crab season was open, and pots were strung up and down
the channel, but I thought since the crabbers had to
throw back all the dungeness and king crab they’d
catch, we’d still do alright fishing our rings.

To my surprise, we hardly caught any crab at all – not
males or females or undersized crab – just about
nothing. We caught 2 keepers and half a dozen
undersized, but that was it. All I could guess was
that all the crab were in the pots in the channel, as
I’m sure the crabbers bait the heck out of the pots,
and that the crab would be back as soon as they
checked their pots and threw back those species they
were not able to retain. So, we’ll try again next
week.

It was a beautiful winter day, with little breeze and
we could see the sun at times trying to burn through
the high clouds. Much warmer here in the past 2 weeks
than in my hometown of Bolivar, NY in western NY state.

–
Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

As I was retiring tonight, I had the radio on as I always do when I go to bed. And on the news, it was reported that Molly Ivans had died at just 62. I met Molly Ivins just once, here in Juneau, soon after Sara and I were married a decade ago. She was in town to speak at the ACLU chapter event. A friend of ours was taking her fishing, and asked if Sara would take her hiking at the glacier with a long time friend of her whose name I forget. I just remember her friend was a TV person who worked with Ed Bradley on one of this news shows.

Sara and I met Molly and friend at the original Ba Cars restaurant here in town. The place was known for it’s atmosphere and food, and certainly was not a place associated with elegance or “high end”. I remember how this Molly person was like a friend you’d always known, and how she commented that although newlyweds, that Sara and I seemed like an old couple with the way Sara finished my sentences. I had no idea of who Molly was nor ever had read her columns. It was only after I met her that I saw her columns and realized what a genius she was for seeing through the political hogwash and stating with clarity what reality really was. And the reality always seemed as how things actually were, not as she saw them. So, it’s a sad day that she’s now gone, and way too young.

My buddy Ranger Doug and I took my boat out to try our luck at with some crab rings yesterday south of town. We ran about an hour south to a place called Taku Harbor, where an old cannery used to be. There’s a public dock there now, and we were the only ones around. We measured out line – about 120 feet for each 6 foot diameter, net-webbed covered ring – on the ice covered dock in the sun. We attached a buoy to each line, baited the center of each ring with fish scraps I grabbed from my processor, and left the dock again as the wind picked up. We tried close by first. We tossed the rings about 100 yards apart in about 100 feet of water in Taku Harbor. We pulled up the rings in about 15 minutes, and didn’t catch a thing. We moved down to Limestone Harbor nearby, and repeated the process. This time we caught half a dozen legal male dungeness crab, and half a dozen undersized crab which we threw back. Although we were after king crab, the dungenss were at least something to take home.

We started home in a north wind, and got the crap pounded out of us for about an hour. The wind was coming right out of the mouth of the Taku, and the flat bottomed boat did not ride comfortably in the 2 to 4 foot chop. We finally cleared the mouth of the river, and the rest of the ride home was fine. I just made it into my state job at 5 pm.