Bigger than the Beatles

I arrived to my new job on the north slope day before
yesterday. I met a main supervisor for our work
group, who got me situated in a room and showed me the
mess hall. Today, we started about 530 am. I still
needed to get my ID, so the same supervisor from last
evening showed me hunting slides for about ½ hour
until badge place opened. This is definitely going to
be a good place to work.

We worked doing maintenance on the boats for the day,
and generally getting as aquainted with staff and the
place as you can in one day. This place is bigger
than the Beatles. It’s flat as far as you can see in
most directions, except far to the south, where the
Brooks Range guards the Arctic plain. I moved to the
company barracks today. My room is on the 8th (the
highest) floor, and overlooks the Arctic Ocean, where
the pack ice is still in place but breaking up. The
temperature is in the 40’s and very comfortable. I
saw my first emperor geese today, as well as other
ducks and a caribou. Although some see the oil patch
as an industrial park, it’s also in essence a reserve
for Alaska wildlife. There’s no hunting in the oil
lease areas where we work, so the animals have no
reason to fear us, and seem to be used to the activity
around them.

If first impressions are good long term indicators, I
think I’m going to like it here, and fit in here, just
fine.

Today is second full day of work, which was spent in
hazardous materials DOT training. A freakin’ thrill a
minute. I think I got more rest there than in my bed
last night.

Saw a couple pairs of Arctic loons today. Another
bright, sunny, nice day here with temps in the 40’s.


Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

Funeral for a Friend

Kevin Honness died on Sat. Drowned in a kayaking accident in S. Dakota. Kevin, Huy, Andrea, Tom, Sarah, Joe, and Luben trained together in 1986 at the Univ. of Oklahoma to become fisheries officers in the Peace Corps. 7 of us chosen from who knows how large a pool. Incredibly, Kevin and I had gone to tiny SUNY Cobleskill a year apart. He was roommates with dudes who would become good friends of mine a year later when I transferred there. He had gone on to Ithaca. Joe attended Cornell, also in Ithaca, although a Kansas boy. Andrea was also raised in Kansas. Years later, I was to attend Mississippi State with a fellow grad student who was on the same floor at Michigan State with Tom. Likewise, when we returned from Africa, Andrea and I were to follow each other to similar parts of the country. The world is so small, it seems.

My favorite memory of Kevin was in our final hours in Norman, OK. He and Andrea decided the best thing they could do after we had completed our rigourous 10 weeks of training was to finish a 1/5 of Cutty Sark. Afterwhich, we all went to the movies. I remember the flick: Stand By Me. When we went in, Joe and I could not find seats together with Andrea, Tom, Sarah and Huy. We sat near the back. After the movie, we exited to the parking lot, where our trainer was waiting for us with the van. There were also police and/or an ambulance there, and we wondered what had happened. When none of our friends showed up, we decided we’d walk to O’Malleys Bar, and the trainer would bring the rest when they came out.

Joe and I walked to O’Malleys, where we had several beers. I remember the waitress asking if we needed glasses, and I said no, I could see fine. She turned to get the beers, got the remark, and gave us a look. I had it, even back then. The rest of the crew never showed, and Joe and I walked home hours later. When we got to our campus housing, Huy was wired, smoking cigarettes with golf ball eyes. “Where were you guys? Don’t you know what happened? Kevin and Pandy passed out as soon as the movie started. Then they started throwing up. They threw up on themselves. They threw up on each other. Great!!!!!. The theatre owners called for medical help and said they’d press charges if we didn’t clean up the mess.” That was a freakin’ classic.

When I returned to Alaska from Sierra Leone, my first year round job was in Kodiak. One day I got a call which said a friend of mine was here to see me in the Kodiak office. I saw a man with a long pony tail, with his back to me, looking at a chart. I thought it was a fish and gamer I’d known. However, when the dude turned around, it was Kevin. No mistaking those piercing blue eyes and million dollar smile. When Kevin was in the Peace Corps, he had short cropped hair and a starch white collared shirt. Just the opposite of expectations. Back in the states, he grew his hair long and came to Kodiak as an observer on a foreign fishing vessel. He’d found a cause in Greenpeace then.

Although at the time, he swore off most animal protein as a vegetarian, one taste of my canned coho salmon altered that. After we ate some coho, and then caught some, Kevin had to know how to can them. I showed him, and he stayed on with me in Kodiak for a week or two. I remember not wanting him to leave. It was good to have a brother again.

Kevin went on to wolf work in Yellowstone. We met once with Joe back in Trumansburg at this parents house. He had a local female friend there, and I think Joe was there too, as he got some short term contract work back near Cornell. Andrea was in NY City at the time, and I can’t, for the life of me, remember if she was there or we called her in her tiny NY apartment.

A few years later, I found myself in Juneau as a fishery biologist for Fish and Game. Kevin’s folks came through town on a cruise ship. I asked what they wanted to do, and it was unanimous- they wanted to fish. So we loaded up the skiff and headed north to Hand Trollers Cove. We fished all day but no luck. I at least wanted to get them semi-near some humpback whales, but they always seemed to stay in the distance. Just as we had to get back, we got a salmon on the line. As we landed it in the net, a group of humpback whales blew right near the skiff. We headed back to the house, grilled the salmon for dinner, and then put Gay and Howard back on their ship. A perfect day.

I happened to go to Minnesota a couple years ago. When Kevin saw my schedule of towns I was going to visit peddling our salmon, he said I was “in striking distance” of where he was in S. Dakota, working to reintroduce swift fox on Ted Turners Ranch. I couldn’t resist. I drove all day and arrived in the state capital late in the evening. Kevin was there waiting. We parked my rental car, and drove in his truck the 40 odd miles out into the prairie to his cabin on the ranch. He put me up in a pop-up camper, and it was so quiet out there on the prairie.

The next day, we went and tracked some of his swift fox. One had been taken by a predator. We found some entrails and the collar, and Kevin thought a hawk had taken it. This didn’t bother him much. That’s part of what swift foxes were in the food chain.

When we got back to the cabin, Kevin put on some bison ribs. The ranch had to take a cow bison which broke it’s leg, I think, in the process of a round up. Kevin got the meat. The ribs were one of the best meals I’ve ever had. The only disappointment of the whole trip was I never did get to meet his wife, who was off at grad school.

We talked annually or more on the phone or email. He took great pride in putting together several salmon orders with his graduate student family at U. S. Dakota, where he’d entered a MS/PhD program.

Kevin died on Sat. His wife called me today. I said I’d call Andrea, Joe, Tom and Sara. Huy is back in his homeland of Vietnam, and Kristy said she’d try to email him. We’ve lost contact with Luben. As I called each person, we shared shock together, made small talk of other things in our lives – Andrea pregnant with twins at 44, Tom trying to pass his medical exams at 45, me heading to Prudhoe Bay at 44, and Joe heading to his field work in Canada at 43. Pretty tough for all of us to take. I was in the middle of the bearing on the boat I was driving to put on the ferry to the buyer in Washington State thinking things couldn’t get worse. But it did get worse.

Freeferall

The local electric company, who has been taking all
the heat since an avalanche took out the power lines
(lots of angry users think they “should have saw it
coming”, etc. and don’t want to pay the 500% increases
in electric rates we’ll have running on diesel until
the lines are repaired) is cutting a right of way for
new power to an FAA site and local ski area. Other
developers – like at our new school site – many times
pile up the cut-down trees and burn them! Totally
wasting a perfectly good heat source. The electric
company, on the other hand, has a history of felling
the trees along a right of way, then allowing
residents to come in and take all the firewood they
want from the felled trees.

I think if I could cut firewood everyday – either
cutting, hauling, or splitting – I’d be alot happier
Joe. Seems my mood is always good after a day of wood
work. I don’t know of any activity other than deer or
elk hunting that produces the full-on sweat that
firewood gathering does. Every muscle aches, and my
back is stiff, but like trolling, I get up the next
day and can’t wait to do it again.

I’ve never placed a dollar value on firewood, so am
not sure if it saves money or not. What I do know is
I don’t depend on a heat source that’s in the Middle
Eastern desert. Nor has filling my oil tank ever
given me much exercise. Whatever the wood costs to
get I write off to much-needed exercise and
entertainment costs.

With the high and ever-rising cost of fuel oil – the
primary heat for most in Juneau – I figured there
would be a gold-rush for the wood. Yet only 4 or 5 of
us were up cutting wood. And, I saw a guy today who I
think passed up cutting any wood because the
downed-wood was not right next to the road for easy
pickings. I noted that, and so will remember to log
in my head where wood is somewhat off the road, and
perhaps leave that for later if there’s easy wood
available, knowing few may go get that wood.

I try not to be in a rush to get the wood cut and to
the truck. I had installed a Tommy Gate lift on my
truck for fish totes a few years back. This makes it
great for wood working as well. As long as I can roll
or end-over-end a log to the truck gate, the lift will
get it up to the bed, so I don’t have to lift it up
myself. This lets me cut longer pieces of wood, and
spend less time on site bucking up the pieces to
liftable sizes. That’s probably why many of the
others don’t want to go far from the road, since
hauling a round of wood through the slash and
ankle-twisting underbrush is not real fun. However,
rolling long pieces, while a lot of work, gets me more
bang for my buck.

Wood cutting is an obsession for me. If I know
there’s wood to be had, I’m always going to be looking
for my next opportunity to get another load or two –
knowing that when this wood availability is gone, I
won’t have another place I can get wood. It’s get it
while its hot mentatlity.

So, I won’t want for exercise for the coming weeks.
I’ll get in all I can, and have to find new places on
our property to put the wood. Firewood gathering is
one thing that was passed down from my dad to me, and
it’s as much a tradition to keep going as a
self-reliant activity.


Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

Paddle boats and Fishing from the Rocks

Got up at 415 am this morning, made coffee and
sandwhiches, and jumped in my friend Kurt’s truck when
he picked me up at 5 am. We were heading out to fish
for king salmon at a place I used to catch them often
in my former life before commercial fishing. When we
got there, there were already about 10 power boats, a
canoe and a paddle boat fishing, as well as about a
dozen anglers fishing from shore.

The first fish was caught by the dude on the paddle
boat at about 6 pm. Three more kings were caught from
shore in the next hour and half. No kings were caught
from our skiff or any of the $60K+ power boats.

It was good to see a few fish being caught, and it’s
always fun to watch the shore fishermen. When one
person gets one on, another who has a net helps to
land the fish. Tagaloug is the primary language of
the rocks.

I don’t know how they thread their herring so it won’t
come off when they cast it out – it’s something I need
to learn. I want to try casting spoons from there
sometime, too. I used to catch kings from shore when
I was a fishing guide out on the Nushagak River in
Bristol Bay way back when, and it sure is alot of fun.
Casting all day keeps your legs and arms loose, and
not cramped up as sitting in a skiff for a couple
hours can.

A couple eagles were squawking overhead. They may be
a mated pair, and perhaps living in the woods above
the rocks where the guys were fishing from shore.
Lots of thalropes whizzing by, too, as well as flocks
of scoters flying by. A nice morning to be out on the
water, fish-catching or not.


Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

Houston, We have a Problem

A Houston, Texan 20 something lady called today,
wanting some information how she and her husband could
“get into the salmon business”. She said her
grandparents had some friends who lived in Seattle and
came to Alaska fishing in the summer. She said that
sounded good, because she didn’t think she could
handle all the extreme cold her.

So, I asked her what she knew about salmon. She said
“I know alot about salmon”. So I asked her how many
species of Pacific Salmon there were. Dead silence.
She then said she knew more about the health benefits
of salmon. So I asked what are the health benefits of
salmon? She said “Omega-3 fatty acids”. I asked what
are Omega-3’s good for? More dead silence. Now she
was pretty mad. She went on to say people want to be
surgeons but don’t know surgery and have to learn. I
didn’t mention that most non-surgeons don’t tell
people they know alot about surgery….

She went on to say her husband loved to fish and she
wanted to “get into the business” but only in the
summer because she couldn’t handle cold weather and
the darkness. Call me crazy, but I don’t think she
was a real good candidate for making Alaska her home –
even in the summer.

Then she asked if “jets” could land at Juneau’s
airport, or just “bi-planes”. I said we get 737’s
here. She thought since jets landed here, Juneau must
be an “industrialized” and “booming” place, so this
might be a good place to start.

Finally she said she just wanted to try something new
because of all the “foreigners” in Houston. “It’s
just a melting pot with Pakistanis and Moslems” she
said. When I told her Alaska also had “foreigners” –
such as our Filipino residents who have been here for
generations and are pillars of such communities as
Juneau and Kodiak – well, I think that was the last
straw. Maybe Alaska wasn’t going to be the answer to
her desire to live in a slower place – because
sometimes you wanna go, where everybody knows
your………race. Where you’re always glad you came.
I hope she doesn’t pick Juneau…………………


Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

Okay, so not so good beginnings………

So, my partner emails me and says he sold the fish I’d
already sold to my customers!!!!! Luckily, he sold
them to another local fish market. I called the
owner, and it looks like I’ll be able to buy back
enough fish (at retail!) to fill the orders from my
customers. Since I know the fish was perfect, I don’t
mind breaking even (or losing money!) on the sale, as
long as I know it’s that perfect fish going to my
customers- all who are regulars. The ways to lose
money in this business never seem to end……..


Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com