family on georgian bay standing on rock with water in the background

Georgian Bay 2026

Got to go to the cousin’s family cabin in the Georgian Bay of Ontario again this September, and lucky to have Sara go along, too. My cousin Christine and her husband John were there again this year, along with one of their daughters, Allison, from Chicago.

Sara and I flew to Seattle in the afternoon, and overnighted in Seattle. The next morning we flew to Milwaukee, where another of my cousin’s daughters Aileen lives with her husband and 2 young kids. We dropped a suitcase of Sara’s at the daughter’s house, and took off for Canada late in the afternoon.

Last year we overnighted in Blind River. This year, we stayed at Bruce Mines – a really quaint-in-a-good-way town on Lake Huron. I went to the town cafe the next morning to get my thermos full of coffee. The waitress happily made a pot of coffee and filled my giant thermos, and then wouldn’t allow me to pay the $20 I offered – she insisted I take the $10 change she offered. I got a really nice vibe about that town. Seems like we were there post-tourism rush and the town’s people were breathing a sigh of relief to get back to school and the rest of the year routine. Like winter for me in Juneau.

On day 2, we shopped at a store in a  little town south of Sudbury for groceries, and got to Camp Dore’ in mid-afternoon. We bought a couple Culligan water kegs for drinking water, launched and loaded the boat to overflowing, and ran the Key River. We stopped at the Key River Lodge and Chris dropped off a couple Iowa steaks for the couple that runs the marina, where we get propane, boat fuel, Canadian candy, ice cream, and fishing gear. We charged on to Cash Island. This was my second season captaining the boat through the rock piles. I followed my Garmin Boating app track laid down last year, while starting to memorize the navigation markers as well. By the end of the week and another two trips back and forth to the river mouth, I got to feeling comfortable making the trip.

We arrived late in the afternoon with plenty of daylight left. We got the 80 year old log cabin opened up. John and Allison got the window covers off. Sara and Chris got the linens on the beds. I got to getting the water system charged. I hauled the water pump down from the cabin, hooked up the intake line and threw it into the Georgian Bay. Then connected the discharge line up to the cabin some 100 feet uphill of the water. The engine started after I primed the pump, and I headed up to the cabin to wait for the water tank to overflow. The engine quit after about 5 minutes. I restarted it after awhile, but could not get the engine to run longer than 5 minutes. I looked up the symptoms on the University of You Tube, and diagnosed a bad coil. We carried buckets of lake water up for the bathroom and hand washing and dish washing for the evening.

On day 3, the big forecasted blow rolled in, and we had rain all day. And not just light rain. A real downpour. What luck! I filled all the buckets and coolers with rainwater off the roof, and that saved us a lot of uphill water hauling from the lake! There’s a fire pump set up at the cabin I’d never tried to run. They bought it the year of the big wild fires in the Henvey that luckily spared Cash Island somehow. The fire pump uses cam lock fittings and roll up discharge hose, and I was lucky enough to cobble together fittings from the spare plumbing parts bin to marry the fire pump hose camlock fittings to the ½ in hard plastic water pump lines up the hill to the water tank. I got it all set up, but the fire pump engine would not fire. When it started to rain again, I quit that project for the day, assured that with all the rainwater, we were set for cabin water for awhile.

Day 4 dawned clear and sunny. It would stay that way the rest of the week. I changed out the old gas in the fire pump engine with fresh fuel, then pulled the spark plug and soaked the electrode in gas. I reinstalled the plug, pulled the starter cord, and it fired right up! When it started pumping water, I saw after a short while that water was squirting out of the base of the plastic Pacer pump housing. Uh oh. When the pump was fully primed and maxing out flow through the discharge flat hose, the water blew out a crack in the bottom of the pump. But it kept pumping! Maybe water got left in the pump over winter some year. I scurried up to the cabin and could not hear water going into the tank. I thought water wasn’t pumping up the hill somehow. I returned to the pump and turned it off. I moped back to the cabin, again defeated by engines. I met Sara this time – she said the tank HAD filled with water and water was gushing out the overflow pipe. So, it was working after all. Now we had water covered for the week. We’d take the pumps back with us to the states for repair, and keep taking them back from now on at the end of the season so they could be tested before each season.

While the tank was full, no water was now coming out of the faucets somehow. The only place I could hear water moving was from the big overhead tank into the empty propane-fired hot water tank. We left that mystery for now and let the tank fill up. John and I went fishing.

We lost our first two smallmouth bass on the jump, and a nice pike that flipped out of the net. The next bass we landed. It seemed kinda like a slow day fishing at the spots that were so productive last year, but really wasn’t that bad. We just lost 3 out of 4.

When we got back to the cabin, we got more good news. Water was flowing in the faucets. More like a trickle than a flow, but they were working. The 80 year old iron pipes are likely caked nearly closed now with mineral and rust build up. But they made it one more season.

On day 5, John, Allison and I went fishing. We caught a bass and small pike. Slow fishing again, but beautiful fall weather again, with a high in the 60’s. Nights were down in the 40’s, so great sleeping weather. Lots more mosquitoes this year than I remember last year.

On day 6, Allison fished with me in the morning, as her dad (and mom) are not early risers anymore as they enter their 9th decade of life. We tried trolling rapalas near the bottom, using propane fittings as a drop sinker a few feet in front of the lure. Not a bite.

After breakfast and a short nap, John and I ran up the Henvey further, and tried the deep trolling again. Nothing. Then we tried casting off some grass beds at a few places, and scratched a couple bass. We also did some trolling in the shallows with the rapalas and got a small pike. A dinner for 5 was now secured with today’s catch and the previous two-days-worth. Fishing certainly humbled me this year. We caught enough for dinner every day last year, and took some surplus fish to my cousins. Not this year. But lots learned. The crew gobbled up the fish I fried for dinner, and there was lots left over to cook for the next evening’s dinner, too.

We didn’t fish on day 7. With plenty of fish left to cook from yesterday, we puttered around and did some preclose-up chores. We stripped our beds. The sheets go home for washing and blankets into the pest-proof bench. John and Allison started putting up the window covers. I filled all the buckets and pots with water from the tank, and then started draining the water system, as it took hours to drain it last year. With the 80 year old iron pipes almost choked tight, it’s time for a new system. The tank finally drained dry after a good while.

Allison and John took a kayak trip around the island and just missed catching me taking a bath when they passed at the end of their circuit. Sandhill cranes that they kicked up flew by as I was bathing. A first for me here. We saw a bald eagle or two, a mink, mergansers, loons, and other puddle ducks this year. No large mammals like bears, moose or deer that we saw last year.

Day 8 was leaving day. We finished closing up in what seemed like record time. I updated a list of items for next year on some lined paper I left on the table, and I took a picture of it for my files. Maybe we’ll make it back next year.

The run back through the rockpiles was the first time I kinda felt confident doing so, running the markers without peeking at the app track. We made it back without issue and were on our way early in the afternoon.

We got through the border and stayed overnight at Sault Saint Marie. I really liked breaking up the trip, overnighting each way, rather than a marathon 12+ hour drive straight on through. We don’t have to be in a hurry anymore. It’s enjoyable. We had a great dinner at the Applebee’s next to our hotel, and saw the photos of the area hockey teams, snowmobile races, and dog mushing. Looks like winter is a fun time here. My kind of place.

We got back to cousin Aileen’s place mid-afternoon. Sara and I ran over to Karl’s to get loaded up on Karl’s brats and Wisconsin cheese. The next day at TSA, the officer took my bag loaded with Wisconsin goodness to see what I had. Turns out the most dangerous thing was Vern’s cheese curds. She kind of blushed and thanked me for supporting the Wisconsin economy, and I thanked Wisconsin for making such great cheese.

We overnighted in Seattle, and I left Sara there for meetings when I headed for the airport before 4 am. We’d taken the light rail to our hotel downtown, but it didn’t start running til 5 am and I didn’t want to risk missing my flight due to busy TSA lines, so I took a cab. I had a nice chat with a Somali driver who was raised in Kenya and had worked out at the Unisea plant in Dutch Harbor once upon a time. We made it to the airport in light traffic, I breezed through TSA and was soon guzzling coffee at gate D3.

The flight was early into Ketchikan, and I was soon checked in on Island Air for the flight back to the Island. Fall is in the air and I scanned the rainforest on the way home for deer hunting spots I’ll never reach.

Cabin Time

Went to our cabin on Saturday. Hadn’t been there since late September. When I arrived at the cabin, I saw that the makeshift roof I’d made over the wood pile was destroyed by the heavy snowfall over the winter. It wasn’t too bad, though. The roofing was still in decent shape, and I cobbled it back together in about 20 minutes.

Next, I knew there was a leak in the roof and I wanted to find it. I feared it might be a tear in the metal roofing or some other hard to find thing. I’d looked up there last summer when the twins were here and I first noticed the leak and saw nothing out of sorts.

I backed up in the yard till I could look up at the roof. And there it was. A simple answer. The ridge cap had blown off half the span of the peak. I started looking around the cabin for it, but then noticed it was still there, laying on the downslope of the roof, but hard to see as it is the same color as the roofing.

I got up the extension ladder to have a look. I noticed the ladder seemed a little sketchy holding me.  When I climbed up to the eave, I could see some of the roof screws had jacked up, and so I should replace all of them when I was up fixing the ridge cap. In the old days I’d have probably gone ahead and tried to get up on the steep sloped roof on my own, but now I thought – better wait to have another person to spot the ladder and get a good safety harness, too, for doing the job.

The cabin scene was wonderful. I got the wood stove going full bore, and always appreciate the dry wood now after years of a bad stove and not so dry wood. I put on the sports talk radio station from town to see who was leading the Masters, and cracked several books on Tlinghit culture and post-contact history I’d had out the last time I was at the cabin. I forget sometimes how relaxing it is to actually read a book, and not read something on a computer or phone or tablet.

The Saturday rendition of the Sunday forecast was for 15 knot winds, increasing to 20 kts in the afternoon. So, I thought I’d get back to town in the morning,  before the 20kts came, but even then, I thought 20 would be manageable.

On Sunday morning, I had a leisurely breakfast, and got down to the boat mid-morning. I headed north from the anchorage to head home, and soon saw the weather had already turned windy. Big seas out in the middle. Then the engine alarm went off. Something about the injector. Then the engine quit. I turned around to head back towards the anchorage, and with the wind. I managed to coax the outboard back to life, and idled back to the anchorage.

But as I got to the anchorage I thought- well, if the alarm hasn’t gone off, I’ll see if I can try going around the other side of the island to get home. It wasn’t much better over there, either, and I turned back again to my boat anchorage. The alarm went off again. The big motor quit,  and I couldn’t restart it as the big wind was pushing me south. I got the kicker started in short order, and idled back to my anchorage.

Well, now I knew I wasn’t getting home today, and probably have to have someone come get me to tow the boat. Then I thought- I’ll see if the neighbors are in. And they were. They’d watched me turn around the first time and that nixed their thought about trying to go home anytime soon. There were two couples maybe 35 to 40 ish, one couple with a son in kindergarten.  One couple bought the place I just missed getting right on the beach, and the other couple but the undeveloped lot next door. I was glad they had kids to enjoy the place if I couldn’t get it. They had a nice landing craft bobbing hard against their mooring buoy, and said I could ride home with them.

I checked in later in the evening with them, but the winds were not letting up, so we agreed to try again in the morning. The forecast was for even heavier winds tomorrow, but many times the north wind will lay down right at sunrise.

I got up a little after 3 am, and turned on the weather channel on the VHF to hear the weather observations. It was garbled, but I thought I heard the weather robot say the wind at Portland Island was 2 kts. And he didn’t mention a gust. When I heard that, I thought- time to get ready. So I packed up my pack, put some water on to make coffee, and got dressed so I’d be ready to go. I had 4 cups of coffee and waited to hear the 4 am observations:  12 kts with gust to 16 kts.  That’s doable, I thought, so I headed right to the boat. I wanted to pull the boat in so it would go dry at mid to low tide, tie a knot where one of the 3 strands had parted, and also tie an extra line from the boat up to a tree, just in case.  There were big winds forecast for the next several days, so I wanted to do all I could to keep the boat in place.

Just as I was finishing, I got a text from my new friends – we’re leaving soon and hope you get this because we can’t wait. I immediately replied I was already down to the beach, and I headed for their moorage. I could see they were just getting on their landing craft from their punt, and others were waiting at the beach to be picked up. As I came down to the beach, the landing craft beached, the drop bow came down, we all loaded, and away we went.

It was about 445 when we left and we got to Auke Bay about 515. I texted Sara when we got near the harbor, thinking if she was up and got the text, she could come get me; otherwise, I’d get a taxi. She was up, and said she’d come get me. She wasn’t even cranky when she arrived, just as I was getting up to the road.    Another Horse Island disaster adventure.

Tenakee and Back

Another trip to Tenakee today with Larry. Our passengers were a long time Bristol Bay fisherman who Sara floated the Colorado River with back in the 1990s, and a long time Juneau elder with lots of stories. As usual, it was lumpy going down with our load, but not so bad coming home.

We offloaded our passengers and freight in short order in Tenakee, and it was just Larry and I on the ride home. When we got around Pt Retreat and headed to Stephens Passage, we saw whales had returned to Juneau. There was one off the southwest side of Shelter Island, then two in Stephens Passage across from Pt Hilda, and as we rounded Marmion Island to Juneau, a whale was heading towards us down Gastineau Channel.

The weather on the west side of Douglas was patches of blue sky and sun. As we headed down the channel, we met sleet squalls. Douglas Island sure can funnel the weather right over downtown Juneau.