Bob and I finally got out of Juneau on Saturday, waiting all week on weather. We headed to the now traditional first stop to fish for shrimp.
Things didn’t start off so good. Bob was running the boat as I put out a string of 5 shrimp pots for spot prawns. I fed out the string, put on a crab buoy, and under it went. Oh boy. I’d had to untangle some of the line and we either drifted deeper than the line we had out, or the tide current was such that the single crab buoy was sucked under. We tried dragging for it with no luck. One of my shrimping buddies is going to look for it next time he goes there, hopefully at a minus tide.
With my tail between my legs, we headed to the trawling spot. Things got a lot better trawling. We made a couple trawls of about an hour, and got a nice cod end full of mostly coon stripes, with some spot prawns and nice pink shrimp in the minority.
We put the shrimp on ice and anchored up for the night. I got the canning pot out of storage under the galley seats to start steaming shrimp tails and we got to processing. When all the shrimp were cooked, I first put them into seawater to stop them from cooking, then put them on ice to chill. With 2 more days of traveling, we’d have plenty of time to shuck and freeze them.
We waited til mid-day to leave on day 2, as low tide was at noon, and we hoped our pot buoy would pop up. We looked around through low tide change and no luck, then headed for Craig.
We traded off processing shrimp. I scooped a big stainless steel bowl of tails and got to removing the shell while Bob tended the helm. About an hour later, we switched duties. We traveled in about a 2 foot chop down Stephens Passage. By the time we got to Pybus Bay, the shrimp were all cooked, shucked, doled out into vac pack bags, and into the freezer. We found a cozy spot in the bay, and anchored up for the night.
I was up at first light on Day 3, and we were on our way about 4 am. There was a little chop going across Frederick Sound. We got to Rocky Pass mid-morning and down the channel we went. I’m always amazed for some reason that we rarely pass a boat during the whole length of the Pass. We exited the south end without incident, and crossed Sumner Strait to El Capitan Passage, passing Port Protection in the distance. I didn’t notice anyone out fishing in front of Port Protection, which may be indicative of the slow king salmon fishing so far this year.
After bucking the tide for the whole trip, we now had the tide behind us and were making such good time I just kept going til it was almost dark. We got to Sarheen Cove at the south end of the Pass, and anchored for the night.
I slept in a bit and got us on our way about 545 am on Day 4. We looked around for a place to fish the shrimp trawl in the spot I’d fished with Mike several years ago, but I couldn’t find a spot I liked that wasn’t too deep for my liking. We were a floating garage sale with all the stuff I was carting down to Craig, and I didn’t feel like trying to get enough tow line and create enough stern deck space for it all. So after looking around a bit, we kept going in fair seas.
An hour later, we arrived at the grave of a Shaman that’s a century old I’d guess, maybe older. It’s on a nondescript island, and you have to know just where to look to actually see the grave, with the totem warrior standing guard at graveside. It’s one of the coolest?, most spiritual?, or maybe the feeling is something else that I can’t find a phrase for. I just know it’s incredible. Every time.
We continued to make good time and were into Craig mid-day. It wasn’t pouring rain for a change, and Bob and I spent the afternoon offloading all the stuff I’d brought for me – futon, queen box spring, truck tires, stand up freezer, many cases of empty and full canning jars, two folding kayaks, and for others – two plastic kayaks, power washer, headlamps, shop lights, brown and white bags of sugar, and coffee syrup. When I load the boat, I inventory the items as I stash them around the boat so I can be sure to offload everything and not take something back to Juneau with me.
I had some wine and Bob some beer after dinner and lots of exercise offloading the boat. We got up late the next morning, and Bob got some unsettling news. His roofer reported there was rot under the old roofing they’d taken off. So, Bob decided to go home the next evening. I scrambled to get ready for a day of fishing on the skiff, as we wanted to get out and back faster than the 6 kt tug.
We took the skiff to fuel it up. The tank was still empty from running out of gas hunting with Nick and Amanda in November. When we got to the boat launch, the engine wouldn’t start. I kept squeezing the fuel bulb, and couldn’t feel it fill up. After trying for 20 minutes or so, I called Chet to ask for advice. He said to bring it by the shop.
He came out to take a look at things and listen to my troubleshooting assessment so far. He agreed fuel wasn’t getting to the outboard. After another 15 minutes, we realized the fuel selector valve was not open to the big engine fuel line, but was selecting for the kicker. Chet also thought there might be an airlock, so he cut off the fuel bulb to the main engine, spliced in a run-a-day can of gas into the fuel line, pumped fuel into the big engine with the bulb on the small tank, then spliced back in the line to the bulb from my fuel tank. He said to crank it and turn it off immediately if it started. It barely turned over when it started and I turned it off. So, nothing wrong at the motor.
I got under the area inside the cabin where the fuel line comes in from the tank to the fuel filter, and then goes out through a selector that either directs the fuel to the kicker or the main motor. When I switched it to the other line, Chet started getting fuel through the bulb. Problem solved. Chet waved us away and went back to what we drew him away from. He’s always so helpful and hope his soon-to-be retirement works for him. He’s one of the most important businesses in the town, keeping hundreds of subsistence, charter, and government boats on the water with repairs and maintenance.
We finally got the boat launched about 3 pm and ran to a favorite spot of mine. Doug said there were also lots of whales, just like last year, so at least we’d get a sea mammal show. We put the trolling gear out and got fishing.
The whales did not disappoint. The sonar showed lots of feed, and the many humpback whales were diving and feeding all around us.
Then there it was. We got one on. I grabbed the rod. Oh, it was a nice king. I handed the rod to Bob, then started to crank up the downrigger. The fish was running hard across the back of the boat, so I took the rod back from Bob for a second to run the line up and over the roof to the other side of the boat, and handed the rod back to Bob. He hung on for all he was worth, working the real. Then it happened: about 30 yards behind the boat, a big, beautiful, ocean bright king salmon leapt 3 feet out of the water…. and spit the hook! Oh. It was beautiful. I say you don’t remember all the big kings and deer you harvest, but you always remember the big king salmon and big bucks you you lose. With Bob in his 70’s and me in my 60’s, our reaction was joy at the event, and the disappointment minor. We were here, with all these whales, and now had a story to tell.
We got the rods back fishing. We caught a couple rockfish we had for dinner, and a ling cod that went into the freezer.
Yesterday, we got up late again, and then jumped in the truck to take an island road tour. We went though Klawock and on to Thorne Bay. I contacted people in Craig to find out if the back road to Coffman Cove from Thorne Bay was cleared of the big slide that stopped Sean and Pat and I in our tracks last year, just miles from Coffman Cove. Both Ellen and Doug reported the road was open, so I didn’t give it another thought, and off we went. An hour later, we got to the slide that stopped us last summer. We passed that slide, and another big slide was cleared a little further down the road. Wow. Big spruce, hemlock and cedar trees piled in a jumble on either side of the road. Not long after, we came to a road barrier blocking the road. Oh no!….not again. We went around the barrier and came to a wash out on the road. We got out of the truck to see if we could get past it, and I saw some vehicle tracks going around it. We’ll try it. We made our way around, and it was a little sketchy, but out we came on the other side. WHEW. Bob got out to move the barrier on the Coffman Cove side of the washout. I passed him in the truck, he reset the barrier, and away we went.
We got to Coffman Cove mid day. We put our orders in at AK-49, the best burger joint on the Island, then went next store to the Rigging Shack general store to look around and listen to Coffman Cove news and gossip.
Our orders were soon ready at the cafe, and we ate our burgers on the covered porch. I asked the owner of the Rigging Shack if business was okay, since activity seemed dead in Coffman Cove, and she said actually it was very busy, with bear hunters, etc., so must be we just caught the town on a crappy weather day and/or everyone was out hunting and fishing.
We got back in the afternoon with full bellies. I luckily remembered to get all the shrimp out of the freezer for Bob to take home, and we headed to the airport. The NBA game was on, so the delay in the flight getting in from Sitka was actually a welcome event. I saw Bob off and got home to listen to the closing moments of the game. Indiana scored their only go ahead bucket in the whole game with 3/10ths of a second left, and won the game.