Wedding in a small town

It’s usually taken more than a birthday to get me home
from Alaska to southwestern NY, but that was when I
was younger and would live forever. My mother had 2
sisters, and they, along with the wife of the brother
closest in age to my mother, were like second and
third mothers to all of my siblings.

One of those aunts turned 80, and a surprise party was
organized by one of her daughters (my cousin). How
that would be arranged, I wasn’t sure. With my aunt’s
extended family extended across the US, and she
knowing just about everyone in her town, I didn’t know
how people would show up without her knowing – but
didn’t really care. It would be a good time.

Then I found out the ruse was conceived because my
aunt’s granddaughter – my cousin’s daughter – was
getting married the day before. So that meant a
wedding on Sat, followed by a birthday party on Sun.
This looked even better.

If I ever saw my second cousin, she would have been in
a crib, since I was gone to Alaska by the time she was
born, and I don’t remember seeing her on trips home.
That lack of association might make one think it would
be a ho-hum wedding, but it was anything but. I was
able to sit with my 86 year old aunt (my mom’s sister)
during the wedding, which took place in the church
where she, my mom, and all their siblings were
married. A church were many of my cousins were
married – with myself and my brother serving as altar
boys for their weddings.

As my cousin walked his daughter down the isle, he
cried like a broken-hearted school girl. This was
only the start of the wedding, and his emotion brought
many there to tears. My cousin’s always been a
blue-collar worker, taking over a dairy business from
his father – my mother’s brother. This guy was giving
his daughter away, and it was clearly a mix of sadness
and joy that swept over him. You don’t see that too
often. There was raw emotion in that church – emotion
that was, I think, amalgamated across the entire
congregation on both sides of the wedding – even among
those like me who were only marginally attached to the
event. This was my family – albeit extended family –
joining lives with another family. Not just two
people getting hitched with their friends there. It
was the kind of event I think rarely happens in
Alaska, since so few people there have the extended
families like those in rural NY. What a privledge to
reconnect with that.

As I sat with my aunt, I noticed her hand on the edge
of the pew. I saw a hand that looked just like my
mother’s did. Funny how you remember those things.

In my discussions with her and others, the theme of
“there’s no jobs around here” came up several times –
like it has ever since I can remember. If there were
lots of jobs here the area would grow – and change.
It’s ironic the area I called home stays “home”
because it doesn’t change. And the reason it doesn’t
change is the economy seems to have been generally
depressed ever since the oil came and went.

I’ve heard alot of talk about looking for oil here
again. It’s where the first real oil boom occurred
not just in the US, but the world. It’s where
Rockefeller and Standard Oil started. In essence,
it’s where modern day America, Ford, and the wars in
the desert over oil started. The oil came and went.
When it was gone, there was little left here to keep
people, so they left. Wildcatters left for new oil
finds. When the oil was gone, the area returned to
farming and light industry – it’s hallmarks today. No
Microsoft’s here. NY state voters make sure of that
by taxing themselves “to death”, as they say,
discouraging industry and new residents from moving
there through the highest taxes in the country. State
sales tax, county tax, school tax, state income tax,
etc. They have ’em all. All of these negatives end up
keeping the place the jewel that it is.

Earlier in the day, we spent time out at “the farm” as
we call it. It’s the place where my mother and all of
her siblings were born. A place where my brother and
I would shoot baskets and eat everything in sight, at
a place almost as familiar to us as our own home.

Now, two generations later, the children of my cousins
do the same thing. Shooting baskets at a place as
familiar to me as it was to them. Same basketball
hoop, same barn, same milk house. My aunt remarked
how gratified she felt that her family still felt as
comfortable as ever coming to farm and knowing they
felt home there.

I started talking to one of my oldest cousins. I
worked with him just before I came to Alaska. He was
10 years out of Vietnam, and I was the same age as he
had been when he’d been drafted, but just a college
boy with no practical skills. He could really lay it
on, but I knew I was screwing up with some of the
mechanical things, and so took my lumps.

Now he’s a grandfather with the patience of Job. I
started asking him questions about the history of how
the farm buildings were constructed. That led to more
questions about our family history at the farm. His
wife got cranky that we were already late for the
wedding reception, so I moved us out before it got
ugly.

I later was able to catch him at the end of the
evening with more questions and answers. All
questions I could have asked my mom, but somehow it
wasn’t important to me when she was alive and I was
younger.

My sister took me home to Bolivar after a great party
taking part in an extended family gathering. Many of
my siblings talked with second cousin’s whose name I
didn’t even know, having had the priviledge of
participating in our extended family while I’ve been
away for 25 years. My cousins like having a cousin in
Alaska, and one even reads my blog, which was a
surprise and a comfort to know I’m somehow remaining
connected to my family in rural NY.

On the way back from Bolivar to Washington, DC, I blew
a tire on the Pennsylvania Turnpike. With 18-wheelers
zooming by a few feet away at 70+ mph, I put on the
little donut spare tire, and called the rental car
company to see what I could do. I certainly didn’t
want to go all the way from Clearfield, PA to DC at 50
mph – the limit of the spare tire donut. I was given
the option of going to State College – the closest
rental car place – for another car.

The rental place was at the airport, not far from
Beaver Stadium, where at about 13 I watched Bob Torrey
play fullback for Penn State. Bob was from our high
school, and a legendary figure having come from our
tiny school to play at PSU and then in the NFL for a
few years.

I’d called ahead there, and the car agent had the
paperwork ready and I was in and out in 5 minutes. He
even helped me move my gear to the new vehicle.

I made it to my brother’s in time to throw batting
practice to my nephew that evening. He and I had some
great time together throwing a baseball around and me
catching up on what his life is all about at age 8.
Pretty much baseball and school and American Idol
these days.

I awoke at 3 am and headed to Reagan. You’d think the
nation’s capital would be buzzing at all hours of the
day, but I saw hardly any traffic – or even vehicles
for that matter – most of the 1.5 hour drive in.

After 5 hours to Seattle and 3 hours to Anchorage, I
stayed the night with a friend and got up yesterday to
attend the final course needed for my north slope job
– the North Slope Training Cooperative class. It’s an
orientation to working on the slope, with alot of good
pointers on how not to get fired. Don’t speed while
driving. Wear arctic clothing when you get on the jet
in Anchorage. Don’t drink any alcohol on the way to
Deadhorse (return trip drinking is fine). If there’s
an animal on the road, don’t honk or drive around it
or anything. Wait till it walks off the road. If a
caribou lays down to take a nap, you can take a nap.
A good class. I’m ready to go.


Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

Clams anew

Went clamming over on Admiralty Island. The steamer
clams have seemingly died off for some unknown reason.
I could not find them anywhere. I did discover a
beach I’d not dug on before absolutely loaded with
butter and pink neck clams.

My good friend Ken, who grew up in Hawaii and is the
local clam expert, has always been a fan of pink
necks. He showed me where to look for them once, so
when I saw the pink siphon showing in the mud, I
started digging.

I got 10 gallons of clams in no time, and it was a
beautiful spring day, with intermittent snow flakes
but mostly dry and the sun trying to peak through.
There was a lone deer on the beach when I arrived –
sure not much deer sign around, more than a year after
the big die -off.

I got the clams home, and then had to badger Ken again
on how to process them. Steamer clams are the best –
just leave in a bucket, and change the sea water for a
few days to get the grit out. Then just steam and
eat.

Pink neck clams (aka, Arctic Surf Clam) are much
larger and so you have to shuck them and clean them.
Since I could see it was way more work than I wanted
to do, as I didn’t know if I’d like this clam, I
turned hero and gave away about 3/4 of them.

The rest I cleaned. First, I tried cutting them into
strips, rolled them in cracker crumbs, and fried in
olive oil. They tasted like calamari or – get this –
clam strips….

The next night, I diced several, put in a pan with
butter, olive oil, pesto, garlic and onions, and
sauteed while pasta came to a boil and cooked. Very
nice.

Now, I’ll have to figure out how to freeze so we can
put the rest up for the summer. We don’t dig clams
after April due to PSP danger, so won’t see more till
next fall at the earliest.

One bad note- our crab pot was gone! Never had one
missing over there. Hope it was not stolen. I’m
going to email the fish cops to see if they might have
picked it up because my name had rubbed off or
something.

Also saw a mink skulking around the cabin. It had a
freshly killed rodent or bird of some kind, and when
it sensed my presence, it took it about 10 yards away,
put it down, then came back where it was to resume
hunting. Don’t know if it ever saw me, but was
certainly taking preventative measures to protect his meal.


Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

Fooled again

Our DEC here is really just incredible. They
requested, out of the blue, plans for how we’d set our
boats up under a direct marketing permit to dress fish
– the issue we’ve been fighting for for going on 2
years now. This came after a fishing association
representative and our state legislator’s chief of
staff told us DEC was going to come up with a solution
to address our situation for this fishing season.

Today, we get a reply from DEC that is almost
identical to all the replies we’ve received from our
govt. to date. :

Good morning Len,
Under the current regulations your proposed activity
of purchasing and processing salmon on board your
tender vessel would be covered under the vessel
processing requirements. A direct market vessel is
only allowed to process your own harvest. The
department has been discussing with you and one other
individual possible changes to the regulations. Before
proposing these changes to the regulations, we will
need to discuss them with other stakeholders and make
a determination on the appropriateness of such action.
If the determination is to make those changes, it
would not be done in time for the upcoming salmon
season. If you want to pursue the small floating
processor permit, the department would be happy to
review any application and drawings you submit, and
work with you on ways to meet the requirements.

Best Regards,
Duane McIntire

“We’re not going to help you. You can comment on the
regulations and we’ll consider them next year.” They
sound helpful for the legislators they copy on their
emails, but in fact have been anything but.

We already “commented on their regulations” last
October, and they rejected them out of hand. No
“stakeholder” discussion as they put it in this letter
– no nothing.

The DEC division director, Kristin Ryan, went in front
of the House Fisheries Committee 2 weeks ago and told
them absolutely false information. I then had to
write each committee member and the governor and show
them what she wrote to us, and the recording of what
she said to them – it was whatever the word is for
“opposite of consistent”. Misleasding. Dishonest.
Deceptive. Pick one.

DEC’s actions mean even more of our fish will go to
China, and her administration recently touted our high
exports to China – exports that are only exporting our
labor and oversight on fish processing to China. The
fish “exported” to China are raw frozen salmon that
will be processed to a finished product and then
“exported” right back here to the US for consumption.
Rather than keep the fish here, we’re encouraging
shipping our fish there – where we have no oversight –
and having them process our fish and send it back for
us to eat.

Return of the crab

Ron and I went to the cabin on Thurs, as spring is
definitely on the way. Still below freezing at night,
but we’re in the midst of a stretch of sunny skies and
starlit nights.

We had pizza topped with Elk, sauteed mushrooms and
onions for dinner. O-MY-Garage is that a good combo.
On the way back to town, we checked the crab pot, and
were happy to see they’re back. We had over a dozen.
On crossing Stephens Passage, we saw a lone female
orca on the move. I can’t remember seeing a single
female before – only males have I seen alone.

We got home to more sun. We divided up the crab
catch, then I started handing out my share two by two
to friends. We ate a couple ourselves, and what’s not
to like about fresh crab.

Spent all day Friday changing the shocks on my truck.
I am still pulling dust and rust from the corners of
my eyes and from my nose. Not much required other
than brute force and a colorful vocabulary to change
shocks. Learned a long time ago to have the sawzall
handy and ready to cut off rusty bolts, rather than
trying too hard to back off a rusty nut. The nut wins
about 99% of the time. Putting on the $200 worth of
shocks reminded me I need new tires- badly. This is
the first set of tires I’ve actually ran bald from
new. That’s gotta mean I’m getting old.


Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

Friendly Audience

My quasi-partner Len and I today finally got our say
in front of a legislative committee here in Juneau.
When we presented our issue, every person in the room
thought what we faced was absurd. We got verbal
support from everyone – a big processor
representative, the United Fishermen of Alaska, the
Southeast Seiners Association, and most of the
legislators on the committee. The big question now is
will we actually see any movement forward. It was
gratifying, at least, to “have our say” for a day.


Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

How to Fundraise for your Union, Alaska Style

Some things you can’t make up. Last year or so, a
captain of our ferry system managed to run a ferry
full of passengers aground on a charted reef on a
calm, sunny day. This week, the union he and the
ferry crew were members of were AWARDED nearly half a
million dollars by the state because they “failed to
notice” the unions when they put on a private vessel
and crew to take over the run of the state ferry crew
that ran the boat up on the rocks! I am not kidding.
Read it here:
http://www.juneauempire.com/stories/031708/sta_258637595.shtml

Fortunately, one of our best friends represents the
union, so I’ve been harrassing him to no end. He also
represents members who work at our harbors here in
town – where we charge harbor fees 40 to 400% more
than are communities, which has led to much of our
commercial fleet leaving town. I told him he could
team up his unions to raise money for the harbor here.
The captains and ferry crew could start grounding
some of the larger vessels, and they could take the
money they’d get back from the state to fund the
harbor, and everybody wins!!??!!


Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com