First check

I only was able to make sets for marten in 4 locations due to the wind and tide last Friday.  I decided this year since the weather is so precarious in getting to my traps that I’d try setting 3 traps at a set, let it sit for about 4 days, then pull it.  I figured if nothing came by in that time, nothing would.  And if something did, I wanted multiple traps there if there was more than one customer.

Kurt went with me to set and was there today to check.  I couldn’t have got to all of them had he not been there to hold the skiff offshore while I went into the woods.  The first 2 sets were empty, and I collected the 6 traps and newspaper boxes and returned to the skiff.  On the third set, which has produced in the past, there were 2 marten.  The last set held one marten.  Not bad.  And there were 3 sets for which 2 the tide/wind was wrong on Fri and the third which I could not quite find that I’ll set later in the season, since I think I got a pair at each site last year.

We ran the beach to try to find a deer for Kurt. When we went to turn for home, we saw the weather had caught up to us, and rather than beat into it all the way home, we decided to go around the island to another boat launch and have a friend pick me up to go and get my truck and trailer.

We crossed the pass and got to the beach where we’d left the skiff to hunt on Friday where I saw what I thought were wolf tracks and headed north, looking for deer on the beach.  As we rounded a point, we saw two hunters struggling to get their skiff off the beach.  Been there.  Done that.  We pulled in to help them.  Turns out they had gone into the woods to call for deer.  When they returned, there was Mr. Wolf, having walked in their tracks.  It was a black wolf and it took off before they could get a shot off.  Had to be the track maker I saw last Friday.  We helped them get their skiff off the beach.  As we idled on our way, they noticed the newspaper tubes in the boat and said they’d seen blue ones in the woods in another place they’d called.  I had trapped that same ground last year and got nothing even though we’d seen what we thought were marten tracks along that stretch of beach.  Could be I was trapping on someone else’s line without knowing it and that trapper had already taken the fur that was there so I was glad to know that.

We continued up the beaches on the island and never saw a deer.  Jeff picked me up and took me to the other boat launch for the truck and trailer, and I returned to get the skiff which Kurt was tending.  A big blow is coming the next few days and glad we got out when we did.


 

Mark Stopha
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
www.GoodSalmon.com

My Alaskan Life

Finally got my traps out this weekend.  Although late (season opened Dec 1), I was earlier than last year’s set date of Dec 30.  Kurt went with me to see if we could get him a deer while we were at it.  Saw a deer on a beach as soon as we got to Admiralty, but the deer had read this book before and as soon as we slowed down it was off and into the woods.  There are only a few spots where I can pull up in my skiff in the lee of a south wind, the predominant wind, push the boat out with the anchor and line on the bow, pull the anchor off with a line attached to the anchor, run up into the woods and check my traps, and get back and know the boat won’t be up on the beach.  This year, I set 3 traps at each site, instead of two.  I know I missed 3 spots where I got marten last year.  One because I must have erased it from my GPS, one because the wind was blowing on the beach at that spot, and third because the tide was so far out the walk was too far.  Maybe I’ll set those when I check next week.  I figure if I have 3 sets at a site, I’ll get more than 1 marten if there’s more than one in the area.  If I check after about 5 days and there’s nothing, I’ll pull the traps as with the warming weather, the bait should stink plenty good for one to find it.  A co worker had some clams sent as a gift from the east coast and they got “lost” and so were unsafe to eat so I got those to try with the deer scraps and jam I normally use, with a little marten lure at the set.   It was a beautiful winter day, with the big mountains seeming a little bigger covered with snow and in the bright sun.  We finished setting at noon, so had a couple hours to hunt before it would start to get dark.  We got off near a point, and found all kinds of deer tracks and scat but the snow was crunchy.  I tried calling in few spots and we eventually circled back to the beach.  On our way back to the skiff anchored off the beach we saw what I think could only be wolf tracks on the beach.  We were a long way from anywhere for it to be a dog.  Gotta be tough to make a living as a lone wolf in the winter.  Maybe on the crunchy snow the deer bust through and the wolf can run on top.  Or porcupines, which would be an easy meal if you know what you are doing.

After my friend Mike passed away, his widow said I could take back the truck I’d given Mike, which had a prize lift gate and a front hitch receiver.  The battery was dead, so we got a new one and it started right up.  It ran rough all the way home, and did not want to go over 45 mph.  I thought it was going to end up being more trouble than it was worth to get it back and give to the Salvation Army for a pick up vehicle.  I planned to take it to our mechanic, but thought I’d poke around just in case.  I popped off the distributor cap, and bingo, there looked like the problem.  The contacts under the cap had crap caked on some of them.  I popped off the rotor, and the distributor underneath was rusty.  I went to the store to get the parts, wire-brushed the distributor plate and shaft, sprayed electrospray and sealer on the distrubtor plate, pulled off one ignition wire at a time from the old cap and put on the new cap, put dielectric grease on the contacts, replaced the rotor, and put it back together.  Ran like a dream.  Then back to Western Auto for a test run and some new wipers, stop leak for what looked like a weepy radiator, and fuses for the dashlights, which were out.  Back in the garage I cleaned the interior of the truck, replaced the fuse, adjusted the wipers, and tested the lift gate.  Everything checked out so hopefully this will work for the SA.

Temperature warmed up to about freezing so could be dicey on the roads.  Hope to get out and check the traps later in the week, and then once more before I pull them and we go to our inlaws south of here a few hundred miles.

Mark Stopha
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
www.GoodSalmon.com

Southern Southeast Alaska deer hunt 2013

Down to the inlaws deer hunting in southern Southeast Alaska.  First day I got in we went on a hunt from the road, driving to an area and hiking into the higher country there.  Saw no deer.   On day 2, we went to my favorite place here.  I hunted alone up the hill, and went in further to the left and higher than I had before.  The area is sort of half clear cut and half uncut.  When I worked my way towards the uncut area and needed to cross a creek, I looked down into what was essentially a canyon.  Nearly sheer sides down and back up the other.   So, I kept climbing.  When I neared the crest, I’d been following along on what looked like fresh tracks, and then I bumped into what looked like a big doe. I could not call the deer back.  I kept going up the hill and found a place to cross that wasn’t so steep.  I climbed down to the creek, crossed, and was clawing my way up the other side when I look up and see a yearling deer, sort of splayed, looking directly at me in the trail I was on.  I looked to see if it had any antlers – which would have been just buttons – and it did not. Would have had to think twice about taking a small deer this far from the beach.   I side-hilled in some pretty open woods with lots of deadfalls.  Nice for hunting.  I set up on a good spot and started calling.  I saw a deer come up that might have been a small buck, but didn’t get a good look at it as it went behind a deadfall below me.  Looked like it was coming up the hill to me, but held up and came no further.  Already seen 3 deer so already a good day. I was supposed to get to the pick up spot at 2 pm, so started to work my way  down.  I knew there were some muskegs between me and the old logging road I’d take to the beach, and we’d taken deer there before.  It was a sunny day and I was not in a big hurry.  I sat in the first muskeg and called and ate lunch.  The muskeg was kind of one big muskeg with a few tree breaks here and there.  I continued down hill after lunch, and called again.  After about the 6th series of bleat calls I saw movement I instinctively knew was a deer in the ground cedar.  First I saw the movement, then the deer, which had had its nose to the ground, put his head up.  And it was a nice buck.  The rack continued moving about 20 yards away through the cedar until it came out into the grass.  The I clicked off the safety, and the deer stopped for a second.  A shot to the neck and it was a quick kill.  Then the fun ended. After dressing the deer, I tried to tie the deer whole to my pack, but after 100 yards, that was not gonna work.  The deer was a very large bodied-deer like the one in Afognak, so I untied the deer and got ready to butcher.  I cut up the deer and put it in my pack, leaving the hide with head behind.  When I shouldered the pack, it was not much lighter but the load was centered and I soldiered on down the hill.  I found I was only about 1/4 mile from the road, and it was a relief to get there, but still maybe a mile to the pick-up site. The old road had several gullies where creeks ran that had once had bridges, so these were a challenge, but not too bad.  I was already going to be 1.5 hours late for the original pick up, but when I called about 2pm to say I was going to be late, my sister in law told me her daughter’s boyfriend had left his cell phone up on the mountain they were hunting on and had gone back to get it. So the boat came for me just as I was walking down the creek and climbing over a couple deadfalls in the creek, right on time.   Turns out the boyfriend had an iphone, and my sister in law called here Apple expert, who used an app to find the phone with a satellite image.  Unbelievable.  I’m not much enthused about having a cell phone along other than for communication, but people like to be “connected”.  All the time.  I do to, but it’s not the same connection, I guess. I was wiped out that night and my brother in law said the kindest words he’s ever said to me – we’re gonna cut meat tomorrow to catch up so not hunt tomorrow.  Music to my ears.  The boyfriend and his buddy came in the day before I did, and had taken 3 deer.  So those deer plus 2 others the inlaws took the previous week were still in the shed hanging, and so we needed to cut meat to make room for more deer.  Since my deer was already quartered, I butchered it the rest of the way and packaged it. On day 4, we went to one of the most southerly places in the state where I’d never been before and never would go if I wasn’t so lucky to marry in to this family.  We hunted for deer along the beaches on the way there, then hunted the bay.  I was dropped off alone at a spot I picked out, where a spine went up from a point, up the mountain.  I figured I could hunt up the spine and come off on one side and back down.  The plan never got that far.  I walked in about 200 yards, and found a nice perch that was between 2 or 3 creeks.  After learning on Day 2 that deer were near the beach – plus seeing deer on the actual beach – I felt this was a great spot for bucks looking for does.  I called and called.  I saw a flash about 20 yards away up the trail to my left. First saw the head, then the rack.  Shot the deer at about 10 yards.  I had trouble finding him in my scope at first, and the shot was high in the neck, so I had to take a second shot while the deer was on the ground.  I then got to work to butcher the deer.  I thought there would be more deer around, so I went to reload and discovered I’d left my bullets on the boat.  I only had one shell left.  So, I field dressed the deer, put it up on a deadfall with the cavity open to cool, marked it with my GPS and put some flagging tape on a tree limb to mark it. I moved about 200 yards side hill, crossing 2 creeks.  I came to a great place that was the junction of 2 or 3 creeks again.  I just knew a would call in another deer, and knew it had to be a good shot – no rushed shots, no matter how big the deer, because if we had to track a wounded deer that I couldn’t kill because I was out of ammo, we’d have to spend the night because we were so far from town.  I called about 3 series, and a deer came up from one of the little creeks, right where I thought it should.  I saw it’s head, then rack, and it presented a perfect broadside shot.  One shot in the neck and that was it.  I dressed the deer, and drug it down the creek leading to the beach, then across the beach to my pick up spot.  From there it was the 200 yards back up to the first deer, and when I got it to the beach, I had 10 minutes to pickup time.  Of course, that turned into a half hour or 45 minute wait, but it was sunny and calm, so I cleaned up my gun, washed the hearts and liver in saltwater, and enjoyed the day.  I don’t like liver but a mechanic does, and we’ve been taking them to him for years.  I rarely need him, but when I have, he doesn’t forget.  I don’t think he hunts, and he is also originally from a country the US loves to hate, so that makes it even more satisfying. Today I was dropped not far from town in a place I’d not hunted before.  While I was getting the GPS location of the drop off site after the boat left, another boat came in intending to hunt where I was.  Since I knew they didn’t know I’d been dropped off I stood out on the beach until they finally saw me.  Turns out it was the man who got me my job on the north slope, and a close friend of my inlaws.  It was about a 15 minute hike gradually up hill, and the last 50 yards almost straight uphill, to a large muskeg.  I hunted on my way up, calling in a few spots, then called in a few spots in the huge muskeg.  I planned to hike down to lower ground and work my way back to my pick up spot when I realized that the muskeg was guarded by a cliff for most of it’s edge.  At one point, I tried climbing down and slipped and nearly poked my eyeball on a smaller dead tree stump.  I was able to shut my eye in the nick of time and so bruised the outside of my eyelid and cut my cheek below my eye but my vision and eyeball seem okay.  Never saw a deer all day.   My brother in law saw a doe and took a shot at one buck but missed.  His brother saw 3 does and no bucks.  I did hear a shot in the bay behind the muskeg I was in and turns out it was the guy who had to make a second choice for hunting when I was in his spot.  My brother in law saw him on the way to pick me up and said he got a big buck.  I texted my friend and said the spot he intended to go was a desert and he can thank me later. Off to friends for dinner tonight.  I butchered my deer already so I’m ready to go tomorrow and get back to work so I can rest.

My Alaskan Life

Just got back from a 10 day field trip.  Went up the Berners River to sample the adult coho salmon escapement there.  It’s a place few people ever go, as we were at the headwaters, and accessible by helicopter, only, although I guess someone could maybe walk up there.  I did the same trip 16 years ago, and realized when we were walking up stream and after 200 yards I was already 100 yards behind – I ain’t 33 anymore.

Neon Leon, the project leader, has been doing this trip for 30+ years.  He walks from camp downstream and upstream to count how many coho salmon are there spawning.  On the second day, we walked to the headwaters of the river after an evening of pouring rain and wind.  When we got near the source, the river split, with one fork going towards one group of the towering mountains on one side of the valley and the other fork going towards tower mountains on the other side of the valley. The weather had been pouring rain since the night before.  We ate lunch at the source of the spring creek, and then headed back downstream.  When we got to the river fork, the river had risen greatly.  It looked like we might not be able to cross the river to get back to the side of the river our tent was on.  The other two said we’d do a “swift water” technique where the largest person (me!) would cross, with the other two behind me in a sort of a tripod.  I would block the water for them, and they would support me by hand in getting across the river.  It was precarious, but we 3 made it across the river at about 345 pm.

Night comes pretty early in late Oct here. We managed to cross to our side of the river.  From there, Leon lead us over hill and dale.  We did not get into the river again as it was too strong of current.  We crossed tributary creeks that normally you could skip across that were now raging torrents.  Of course, as we coursed through the woods and muskegs as night fell and we donned our headlamps, Leon related bear attacks at dusk.  So, in our hip waders, we traversed unknown miles back downstream in the woods.  At one point, we came down near the river, which I only knew because I could hear it, and I saw a trail in my headlamp and directed Leon to it.   And suddenly – there was our tent.  I let out a whoop as I thought we were in for more miles of trudging.  Wow, was that a welcome site.  When we got to the tent, I was thoroughly soaked from head to toe, and began stripping down and hung my clothes on the nails and dowels above the stove.  Then I started a fire in the woodstove, and looked for the nearest snake-bite kit for relief.  Leon said he’d turn off his watch alarm  for the night as the rain and wind continued. We gradually awoke the next morning.  To my amazement, the river level dropped as quickly as it rose as the rain tapered off.

By mid-day, we were able to get back out on the river and try to seine the schooling coho salmon.  The water was still kind of high the next few days, and we were scratching for less than a 100 fish a day.  Our goal was 600 fish for scale samples, and I wasn’t sure we’d make it. After another day of little rain, the river continued to drop and at some point the combination of the lower water and our improved technique of beach seining we finally reached the 600 fish goal for scale collection.  Then we just seined and looked for fish marked by clipping their adipose fin when they were outmigrating smolt. We ate well the entire trip.  Neon Leon mostly did breakfast, and I did several dinners and Scott filled in a few days.    Wow.  I may not be 33 anymore, but I think the trips like this that I survive mean more as the years go by.   I managed about 4 gallons of high bush cranberries during the trip, and was busy juiciing some and freezing the rest today, along with other catch-up chores.  Hopefully, I’ll get to go to the Berners again.

– Mark Stopha Alaska
Wild Salmon Company
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
www.GoodSalmon.com

33 is long gone

Just got back from a 10 day field trip.  Went up the Berners River to
sample the adult coho salmon escapement there.  It’s a place few people
ever go, as we were at the headwaters, and accessible by helicopter,
only, although I guess someone could maybe walk up there.  I did the
same trip 16 years ago, and realized when we were walking up stream and
after 200 yards I was already 100 yards behind – I ain’t 33 anymore.
Neon Leon, the project leader, has been doing this trip for 30+ years.
He walks from camp downstream and upstream to count how many coho salmon
are there spawning.  On the second day, we walked to the headwaters of
the river after an evening of pouring rain and wind.  When we got near
the source, the river split, with one fork going towards one group of
the towering mountains on one side of the valley and the other fork
going towards tower mountains on the other side of the valley.

The weather had been pouring rain since the night before.  We ate lunch at the source of the spring creek, and then headed back downstream.  When we got to the river fork, the river had risen greatly.  It looked like we might not be able to cross the river to get back to the side of the river our tent was on.  The other two said we’d do a “swift water” technique where the largest person (me!) would cross, with the other two behind me in a sort of a tripod.  I would block the water for them, and they would support me by hand in getting across the river.  It was precarious, but we 3 made it across the river at about 345 pm.  Night comes pretty early in late Oct here.

We managed to cross to our side of the river.  From there, Leon lead us over hill and dale.  We did not get into the river again as it was too strong of current.  We crossed tributary creeks that normally you could skip across that were now raging torrents.  Of course, as we coursed through the woods and muskegs as night fell and we donned our headlamps, Leon related bear attacks at dusk.  So, in our hip waders, we traversed unknown miles back downstream in the woods.  At one point, we came down near the river, which I only knew because I could hear it, and I saw a trail in my headlamp and directed Leon to it.   And suddenly – there was our tent.  I let out a whoop as I thought we were in for more miles of trudging.  Wow, was that a welcome site.  When we got to the tent, I was thoroughly soaked from head to toe, and began stripping down and hung my clothes on the nails and dowels above the stove.  Then I started a fire in the woodstove, and
looked for the nearest snake-bite kit for relief.  Leon said he’d turn off his watch alarm  for the night as the rain and wind continued.

We gradually awoke the next morning.  To my amazement, the river level dropped as quickly as it rose as the rain tapered off. By mid-day, we were able to get back out on the river and try to seine the schooling coho salmon.  The water was still kind of high the next few days, and we were scratching for less than a 100 fish a day.  Our goal was 600 fish for scale samples, and I wasn’t sure we’d make it.

After another day of little rain, the river continued to drop and at some point the combination of the lower water and our improved technique of beach seining we finally reached the 600 fish goal for scale collection.  Then we just seined and looked for fish marked by clipping their adipose fin when they were outmigrating smolt.

We ate well the entire trip.  Neon Leon mostly did breakfast, and I did several dinners and Scott filled in a few days.    Wow.  I may not be 33 anymore, but I think the trips like this that I survive mean more as the years go by.

I managed about 4 gallons of high bush cranberries during the trip, and was busy juiciing some and freezing the rest today, along with other catch-up chores.  Hopefully, I’ll get to go to the Berners again.

. – Mark Stopha Alaska Wild Salmon Company 4455 N. Douglas Hwy Juneau, AK  99801 www.GoodSalmon.com 

Deer

Went hunting up behind the house.  Probably got further back up the mountain than I ever have.  Saw a little sign and no deer.  Leaves still on the blueberry bushes and the devil’s club making it hard to see.  When I got back in about as far as I went, I found an enormous spruce tree that looked like a good place to have a snack and blow the deer call, which I did. When I got up to leave, something coming directly at me startled me.  Then I realized it was a very young porcupine, who simply waddled right by me, then to the tree, and then to the hole in the bottom of the tree- which I saw was his or her living quarters.  Saw 2 hunters on the Treadwell trail on the way back down to the house. They’d seen nothing, either. 

Mark Stopha
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
www.GoodSalmon.com