The Good Old Days in the Arctic

Last days working on the ice road and the drill site at Pt. Thomson. Big, big sun now. My eyes physically hurt if I take off my sunglasses. I’ve seen a few ravens with lemmings in their mouth. Yesterday the ice road was in the final stage of closure. The delineators had all been removed, and a back hoe was proceeding from the drill site to Badami digging out the areas of the ice road that were over streams.

Some good stories told by one of those there with me in the end. He talked about stories he’d heard working as community health worker in some Eskimo villages in western Alaska. One was how hard life was before “white people came”, according to an elder. I’ve often wondered how any animals, much less people, could survive the winter with so little food available in the high arctic. The health worker related how much on the edge the people were then. Families necessarily had to be small. Food gathered had to be put in caches for the winter when food was scarce. If the male hunter was sick or injured, it could mean starvation. Newborns might have to be left behind when food was scarce. Families that ran out of food in the winter might not be given food by other families from their food cache if food was scarce. Kind of a wake-up to the often romanticized way of life we think of in “the good old days”.


Mark Stopha
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
www.GoodSalmon.com

I’m up on the slope finishing the second week of a 3 week hitch that will probably end short as the project is about over. I’m working over on Pt. Thomson, about 50 miles by ice road from Prudhoe Bay, at Exxon Mobil’s gas project. The camps have been dismantled and nearly all moved to town. Just a few odds and ends to put on tractor trailers and sent to town. Then the delineators on either side of the road will be removed, the road closed, and another ice road will melt into the tundra.

The ice road was incredibly slippery today. Usually an ice road is “scratched” after water is put down to provide traction, but today the wind was blowing, and even on straight stretches, the pickup truck would fade to the downhill side as there was no or too little scratching to provide adequate traction. Luckily, only the 2nd half of the road near town was like that, but that’s still 20 miles or so of bad road to negotiate. I wanted to kiss solid ground when I got to gravel road today.

Weather is starting to inch above zero most of the day, and nearly 17 hours of daylight now. The sun and glare off the snow hurt my eyes without sunglasses today.

Hooters have started hooting in Juneau. I’m eager to get home and in the woods. Should be a few kings around, too.



Mark Stopha
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
www.GoodSalmon.com

Greatness from the smallest of towns

I recently ordered the biography “Frank Gannett: A Biography”, written in 1940 by Samuel T. Williamson.  Growing up in a town of little over a thousand people, you’d think there would have been more history told of it would seem, without a doubt, its most famous citizen. 

Frank Gannett graduated from Bolivar High School at the turn of the 19th century (1897).  As a teenager, he was an industrious worker and small businessman in Bolivar, where he learned to hate what alcohol did to people when he bartended at the Newton House (which I believe was situated on the corner of current day Main and Wellsville Street – 2 blocks from where I grew up).  In short, Bolivar in no small part shaped his life and morals.

References are made throughout the book back to his life in Bolivar, where he was friends with two others I never heard of – Dougherty and Jones.  Both went on to major league baseball careers –  Jones as the manager of the Chicago White Sox, and Dougherty as one of Jones’s best players on the White Sox.  Who knew?

The book is written in a style of reminicent of a book I read by a Rochester newspaper writer written about the same time – 1940 ish – of his travels on foot through the Genesee Valley from the river source in Genesee, PA to its terminus in Rochester. I’m not sure if the simple descriptive and introspective style makes this book about the newspaper magnate interesting to me, or the fact that I share the same roots with the subject. Probably both.

Growing up, the town hero was (and still is) Bob Torrey, who played fullback for Joe Paterno at Penn State in the mid-1970’s, then 3 or so years in the NFL. Everyone in my generation knew of Bob, but I dare say few or none knew of Gannett. Most idolized Bob, but few, if any, had thoughts of following him. His combination of size, strength and speed had as much to do with random genetics as they did with talent. All the hard work in the world won’t make you a Division 1 football player if you don’t have the body for it.

Gannett’s story is different, though. Like those that came after him, he graduated from an excellent school system that taught the 3 R’s well and had a town of hard-working families that cared about each other and their town. Gannett took this same education and small-town pride to heights not seen until perhaps Lance Shaner and his success in hotels and oil.

I wonder how graduates from Bolivar would feel if they knew greatness was bred in their hometown – a greatness they all could achieve? Would they think they could achieve anything when they left high school and shoot for the stars, rather than leaving that for what they thought were smarter or somehow more advanced or advantaged people from the big city? Who knows. I do hope when I send this biography back to Bolivar when I’m done reading it that the school will include it in its curriculum, as well as the contemporary history of Lance Shaner. Heroes seem better when they live down the block.


Mark Stopha
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK  99801
www.GoodSalmon.com

brrr

Still out next to the pack ice of the Arctic Ocean. I was supposed to be on my way home today, but the temps dropped below 40 below and stayed there, and that’s the cutoff for the helicopter to fly from Deadhorse to here to get us. One more day of work and pay won’t hurt. It’s too cold for the crew to build ice road in this, so lot’s of gabbing and card playing and tv watching and internet surfing tonight here.

Mark Stopha
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
www.GoodSalmon.com

Nippy

I’m at Pt. Thompson in the Eastern Arctic Ocean coast of Alaska. It’s about -40 F degrees here tonight. When I get home to Juneau, it is forecast to be about 40 F degrees. A gain of 80 degrees.

Mark Stopha
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
www.GoodSalmon.com

Marten

Caught 2 more marten this check. One where I caught the first one of the year, and the second at a set where I caught one last year. Also had one trap snapped but no fur. Went back to the cabin and skinned all three according to instructions I found doing it head first. Worked pretty well, and glad to have it done. Now need to make some stretchers.

Weather looks like it’s coming up after tomorrow, so will probably have to go and pull the line tomorrow or might not be able to get back over before I leave for start of winter work on the slope. It’s been about 40 during the days and all the snow was gone in the woods. Lots and lots of tracks on the beach where we got the last deer of the season last week, and the scat looked like the deer had been eating sea weed.


Mark Stopha
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
www.GoodSalmon.com