Land of the deer and the derrick

Back in NY deer hunting. Our little town of Bolivar in Allegany county is surrounded by hardwood covered hills. A high school classmate, Pat, and his dad own the hill above the high school. Pat lives on one side of it, and his parents on the other. So, we start up one or the other side, and chase whitetail deer.

I saw 9 my first day. Pat showed me on a map where the deer would be. When I reached the very spot, there were about 5 of them righ where he said they’d be. I saw two other groups of 2, but no bucks. Perfect hunting conditions, with some snow on the ground, the leaves all off, and good temps (30’s) for hiking without over heating, and tolerable to stand or sit for awhile, too. Lots of black-capped chickadees and gray squirrels in the woods, and I saw a blue jay in the apple tree next to Pat’s house. Lots of apples this year, but little mast crop (acorns, etc.)

Such a pretty place here that I grew up. Not much has changed in my lifetime, and unless there’s another mini oil boom, not much will. If a guy can get a stable job with a decent wage, it’s a great place to live. Housing is cheap, food is cheap, and everyone knows everyone. Taxes are NY States’ achilles heel, but with land values so low here, I guess folks can afford it. Still lots of signs of the early oil industry here, with the wood oil holding tanks, well pipes sticking out of the ground, and the old pumps here and there.

I went to see my 88 year old aunt, who is in such great shape. She can’t always remember things that happened 30 minutes ago, but has a great recollection of what happened 30 years ago. I enjoy hearing all her stories, and prompt her for information all I can about our family. She had a photo album of old, old photos, some of which had my mom in them. She had me take all the photos with my mom, and as I was leaving after 4 hours of visiting, she said she enjoyed talking with me because she said it made her feel like she was talking with my mom, who she misses alot.

We talked about the election, and she said she voted for McCain because Obama was pro-choice. And when I brought up the irony of McCain being pro-life but wanting to continue the war and killing in Iraq, she said that it was such a hard choice choosing a president, and what are we doing over there anyway? It made me feel good that at least people are having a hard time choosing one over the other.

Last night, Pat and I sat at the country club bar for a few too many drinks (headache this morning) and good conversation with the manager and the bartender, whose sister was also a classmate of ours. I spent much of my youth at the country club area, fishing the stream, wading the stream for golf balls, working in the pro shop, then later on the grounds crew, and golfing there all I could from the time I was about 12 to 17. Of course, some of my close friends were a topic of discussion, and Pat and I were updated as to who was cheating on who, etc. It was good to see the bartender had managed to scratch out a life and stay here in Bolivar. He recently bought a spread south of town with some hunting acerage attached, and was excited that his son had just harvested and dressed his first deer, and that the kid wanted to be a welder. Also some interesting talk of sightings of a bobcat, and also cougars, although it seems no one has got a photo of one
yet. I’d think with all the cameras in the woods now that someone would have a photo of one.

Back to Juneau on Sat, with a grueling DC-LA-Seattle-Juneau flight. Will be good to see my wife for awhile. The slope job has been fantastic, but with all the hunting I did on my off weeks, I haven’t been home much and look forward to an extended stay there until Sara heads to Egypt to see our friends there over Christmas break.


Mark Stopha
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

Deer hunting and Bear Skulls

Kurt and I went hunting for the day yesterday. It was not pouring rain for a change, and in the mid to upper 40’s. Winds were northly with a little lump on the skiff ride over to our spot, but nothing nasty.

We went to our usual spot, and unloaded the gear on the beach. The tide was flooding but the wind was going to push the boat up on the beach, so we took the anchor seaward, tied a line on the anchor flukes, and ran the line to the beach so we could retrieve the anchor at high tide.

We headed up the mountain, using a bleat call in likely spots as we moved. The terrain here is a gradual rise in elevation for about 3/4 of a mile, hen a steep rise to the ridge top, which is about 1800 feet. We didn’t see much deer sign. When we got to the big muskeg at the base of the ridge, we had to decide either to follow the muskegs along the base, or start climbing up the ridge. We decided to head up, as we figured perhpas the deer were in the higher country with the warm weather.

We got about half way up the ridge, and decided to have lunch. We were sitting about 75 yards from the base of a series of cliffs. Not likely deer habitat, but I have see deer come to the edge to a look over to a call.

Kurt sat down and broke out a sandwhich. I moved about 30 yards away on a spot overlooking different country than Kurt, then put a shell in the chamber of my .270, blew the deer call, and broke out my thermos of coffee.

I’d just about finished pouring my first cup when here comes a deer tearing down the hill. It stopped above us about 40 yards, and I shot. The deer took off again downhill, and when it came by again, I made a finishing shot. Kurt said he’d seen the deer coming from a lot longer way than when I first saw it. He said it came along the top of the cliff, found a path down, and then came tearing down the hill.

We decided I’d dress the deer, and Kurt would laterally along the hillside and look for more deer. I gutted the deer, then hung it by the back hocks, took the skin off, then quartered the deer, putting each piece into my pack. Kurt showed up just as I was finishing.

We hunted our way back down the hill. As we descended one area, we found an almost complete bear skeleton. The head was particularly intact. Kurt later found it had what looked like puncture holes in the head. It looked like perhaps it was a young bear that might have been eaten by a larger bear, but who knows. We rarely see bears, but this was a reminder they are around.

On the way back, I sent Kurt off to the south to try a spot that’s been good when there’s snow, and I headed to the boat. When I got to the boat, the end of the tag line from the anchor was under water. Normally, I wouldn’t worry too much, as I could just skiff over to our cabin, even in the dark, and go home the next day. But Kurt had to be to work on Monday, so I undressed to my boxers, left my socks on to protect my feet from the rocks, and waded out to try to find the line. Talk about cold. I couldn’t find the line, and the cold was now painful. I managed to make it back to dry land without falling, and redressed.

I saw a boat in the distance, and tried raising it on my handheld VHF. I got no reply, so thought the boat was anchored. However, I later saw a wake along the boat, and realized it might be moving slowly along the beach. I tried waving my arms, and thought maybe they would not see me in my camo coveralls, so I removed the top of the coveralls to let my blue turtleneck show. When I didn’t see them respond, I fired 2 shots from my gun, then waved my hands again, and tried the VHF again. This time, they responded. They came over after awhile, unloaded their raft, paddled to shore, and took me out to my boat.

By this time, Kurt hand returned, with a story that he’d been up to his waist in a bog. The canine teeth from the bear skull that he was carrying in his coat was poking on the underside of his chin as he tried to get out. We both thought that would have been interesting to hear the explanation of those who found his skeleton with the bear skeleton if he didn’t make it out.

We checked the crab pots on the way home, and found they’d been moved. There were no crab, so we pulled the pots for now. The ride home was over near flat calm water. At the house, I removed the deer meat from my pack, and hung it in my new home-made game bags in the garage. What a relief to get out of my wet clothes and into the shower.


Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

Nanuq and sunny

Another nice day here. About 11 degrees and quite cold before sunrise with the wind, but calmed down and was up to 19 by 5 pm and partly cloudy. Very nice sunsets now, too. The sun was about 30 degrees above the horizon today. As we drove from our office site to our work site, I saw a polar bear out on the ice, headed for open ocean/ice. As required, we notify security so they can let others know a bear is in the area, in case he decides to change direction and come into the work areas.

Winter is here

Winter is here in Prudhoe, but it’s not as bad as it sounds. Today was wonderful. Light winds and some snow. Lots of wildlife around now as it seems as many have been waiting for ice so they can get around on foot easier. There are several arctic foxes hanging around. On the way back from Northstar today, we saw a snowy (?) owl on the ice, eating something – presumably a bird. It looked like perhaps the foxes caught sent of that and were out looking for scraps.

Sunset was around 6 pm, and a blood-red sky. This weather in the 20’s and snow, even though “winter”, is comfortable and calm. I did note the place looks much more “civilized” today. It’s dark in the morning, and the extent you can see where the oil field extends is shown by all the lights in the distance.

Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com

Elk, crab and the dog ate my plane ticket….

Elk Hunt 2008

My slope hitch ended on opening day of elk season – Sept. 25. I left Deadhorse, where a quarter inch of snow was on the ground. I made it to Kodiak the same evening, but too late to get out to Afognak. I stayed with my brother in law’s college roommate, Alan, who was to fly me to Afognak the next day.

I arrived at elk camp in the back seat of Alan’s super cub the next day.. I had not flown in a cub for many years. The small plane had a lot of room in the back seat, and we had good weather for the flight.

My arrival was several days after my hunting friends had made camp. They arrived a few days before the elk season opened to get a prime spot and to do some scouting. I arrived to a ready made camp, with everyone out hunting.

After we taxied as close to shore as we could and jumped into the ankle deep water, we heard a shot not far away and assumed it was a signal shot for Alan to stay around until the group returned. Soon after, 2 hunters showed up, and said the other two were close behind. The other 2 showed soonafter, and all looked like drowned rats.

The party had taken a mammoth elk opening day, late in the day, and in thick alders. Two of the party shot the elk, and were immediately worried about the approching dark. They were happy when my sister in law and her husband showed up, having come to the rifle shot. It was late in the day – 4:30 pm – when the elk was killed. It took the 4 of them till after dark to dress, butcher, bag, and hang all the meat. As night came upon them, they didn’t have the heart to try to pack out 75 to 100 lb packs in the dark, so they hung the meat in the woods, away from the kill site so as not to invite a bear to their meat, and humped it back to camp, mostly in the dark.

The next day, they headed back to the kill site for the first load of meat. The animal was a 5 pack animal, and with only four of them, one pack of meat and the 6 by 5 rack was left for the next day. We arrived to camp just before they did, each with a load of meat in their packs. I helped the hunters dismount their packs. Alan, now with a me out of the plane, had room for the 250-300 lbs of meat in the back of his plane, and off it went back to his meat shed. He and I saw about 4 elk in the hills behind camp on the way in, but they looked a long way off – longer than you’d want to have to pack them.

The next day was my first day of hunting. After days of rain, it cleared out, and was a beautiful day. The grass had a solid frost, so we got through that and into the higher country without getting our legs wet from the normal morning dew or rain.

I was priveleged to hunt with Mike, who grew up in the town where my inlaws live. Mike is a commercial salmon, halibut and blackcod fisherman, a wolf trapper, and local city councilman. He spends a lot of time in the woods, and I often wondered what his brain was processing as he looked at tracks and other signs along the game trails we climbed.

We hunted all day, bugling every so often. We got no reply from any bull elk, nor did we see any deer. We did find some nice black tail deer antler sheds. Elk had definitely been in the area, but with a herd animal like elk, they are not distributed here and there. You either find all of them in a bunch, or none of them if the bunch isn’t in your area. Although huge animals, it’s easy to miss them. The herd might be over the other side of the ridge you are on, or in the woods directly below you, and you’d never know it. Luckily, bull elk can’t resist replying to a bugle from another bull elk this time of year, and so usually, you can call and get a reply if elk are in the area.

We arrived back at camp in the early evening. The crew looked tired and sore. I was surprisingly not sore or cramped. My slope daily workouts of a half hour on the bicycle and six flights of stairclimbing a few times a day was paying off. We had a dinner of elk meat. The meat was very tasty, but tough as hell. Taking the herd bull produces a lot of meat, but it was going to take some ingenuity, I could tell, to cook this critter. It also made me determined to take a smaller bull or cow if given the opportunity so we’d have some better meat.

The next day, both groups split up again, and we all covered new territory. However, the results were the same. No one got a return bugle, nor saw any elk. Mike and I did, however, call in 3 large blacktail does to Mike’s bugle call. One came up a small opening in the trees so quickly it may have knocked me over had I not let out an exclamation that caused it to take a quick 90 degree turn at the last moment. I’m going to have to try bugling on Admiralty or Douglas Islands near home to see if the deer there respond.

Mike and I went further from camp than the day before, and were up on one ridge, down again, and up another. We covered a lot of ground. Again, I was surprised at how good I felt. My only sore spot was my feet. I had to wear my work boots from the slope on hunting day 2, because my hunting boots got scortched in the heel while drying by the fire. I duct taped them, but was not sure if the patch would hold, and did not want to risk wet feet. If I had this decision to make again, I’d opt for wet feet, as my feet slid around inside my larger work boots, causing undue strain. However, there wasn’t an instance on either day where I felt I wasn’t keeping up, nor did I need a handful of ibuprofen at the end of the day. I feel in surprisingly great health, particularly for being overweight, and hope that little by little I might get a hold of my weight – which I attribute to overeating and nothing else – as I continue regular workouts.

The DeHaviland beaver float plane arrived on day 3 to pick us up in two trips. Roland, our pilot, plugged the plane with nearly the entire camp of a wall tent, large pole tent, camp stove, lanterns, packs, etc, and 3 of the 5 of us in the first trip. Those planes can really pack a load. Roland was our pilot last year as well, when he was using a plane leased from a fishing lodge because he’d wrecked his own plane earlier in the summer. He now had the rebuilt plane back, with new floats, rebuilt wings, and new interior, and it was a great ride.

My brother in law and I waited until the second load to fly out with what little was still left from camp. We both had brought along stocking foot waders with no wading shoes, because the plane could not get all the way to the beach because the lake was so shallow. The waders worked surprisingly well in the mud bottom. Only the random spruce limbs lurked in the ankle to knee deep water to puncture our boots, and we were able to see and avoid these on our first trip to the plane in clear water, and then remember where they were in subsequent trips.

We flew out in beautiful weather back to Kodiak. We arrived in town, paid our aircharter fees, and arrived at Patty and Lew’s, who are friends of my inlaws. It was an anniversary of sorts for me. Last year at this same time, Lew showed us his photos and told stories of his work on the north slope. I found out from him what it took to apply for a job there on his crew, then set out knocking them off one by one. By February, I’d completed the last and most difficult requirement – the 50 ton Captains License – and a few months later landed my current job, largely due to Lew’s recommendation to our bosses there. Life has been on the upswing ever since.

Alan not only brought our meat back to town, he cut it up, packaged and froze it all for us , too. I booked an early flight out the next day so I could get back to Juneau in the afternoon. We went to Alan’s and got a box of elk meat for me, thanked he and his wife for all their help, and I went to sleep quickly on return to the house.

I checked my gun and meat as baggage at the Kodiak airport and headed to Anchorage. I arrived in Anchorage, breezed through a short security line for a change, and just as I’d found my gate, I was paged by Alaska Airlines. I inquired at a gate desk what they wanted me to do, and I was informed I would need to provide another lock for my gun case. It already had one lock on the case, and the bolt was not in the gun, but now, even after my gun went through TSA in Kodiak, they were telling me midway through my trip I needed another lock.

So, I had to go back out of security, buy the lock, wait for the TSA agent to give me the all clear, and then go through security again. Of course, by the time I got in line again, the breeze through line was now full, and I waited a goodwhile before I got up and through security again. As much as ever, I realized how sick I’ve become of our government. All this security crapola due to 911, when 911 was a result not of a lack of rules, but a lack of following security and immigration rules already in place, and lack of communication between those supposedly there to protect our country. Instead of fixing those rules, we now make traveling hell for law abiding citizens. It made me believe more than ever that we must get a 3rd party movement going if the country’s leadership will ever represent the average American. Maybe it never has done that. All I know is that our two parties in place now are more the same than they are different, supported by
the same money and media. The country may not fall apart if we don’t get a third party to compete with what is essentially a single party with two arms, but I’m not liking the road we’ve been down, bailing out financial institutions that are supposed to be the experts in handling money, or sending our military to kill tens of thousands of innocent people in an oil control war in a land so far away. In the end, our nation votes in just what we get. People would rather parrot what some talking head says on the television rather than stopping to think for themselves and form their own educated opinion. If the government tells us we have to invade a country that’s done nothing to us, I guess we have to do it. If the government says we have to bail out financial institutions and millionaires, it must be for our own good.

Back in Juneau town, of course the first thing I did was to go hunting with Kurtis. We hiked most of the way up Pt. Hilda on Douglas Is. A nice day for a change here, but very little sign and the leaves were still on the blueberry bushes and devil’s club, so hard to see.

The next day, I went to the cabin. Thought about hunting the next day, but then remembered all the leaves and little deer sign, so decided to check the crab pot and head back. I pulled the first of my 2 pots. There were exactly 20 crab in the pot – a motherlode. 20 crab is the limit for a resident, so I didn’t even check the other pot. I headed back to town, and stopped at our good friends Bob and Laura to drop off some of the booty. Bob is our resident handyman and welding expert, and Laura does our graphic work. We never get a bill for any work, and they don’t go hungry for crab or meat (they got part of my elk meat, as well).

I tried to finish up my chores around town on Wed to get ready to leave on Thurs. The last was to buy 400+ full size candybars for Halloween, as I didn’t want the matron of the household where we meet annually to put on Halloween while drinking too much to have to worry about getting them while she was on vacation with her family in NY.

On Thurs, I got to the airport at the normal time. When I got upstairs at our tiny airport, the line was longer than I’d ever seen it. When I finally got through TSA (only one of the two sides of the TSA line were open), and into the waiting area, we found we were left! Everyone infront of us got on their plane, but they just left us. I immediately called my company on the slope to report I was left behind, and they made arrangements to get me on another flight, and most importantly, to be sure my seat wasn’t reserved going up today so someone else could get on it. It’s a cardinal sin not to make the Anchorage to Prudhoe flight and not call in.

Turns out I could not get on a flight until Sunday! I would miss the equivalent of a week or more of work, with only myself, really, to blame. Although getting to the airport here 2 hours ahead of time does little good since TSA is not open then that early in the morning. I got home so mad at myself I could hardly contain myself. I picked up the cordless drill and started finishing every project in sight.

In any event, I’m now going to Anchorage to try to help my aging in-laws and my sister in law put together some paperwork, as my sisterinlaw is in failing health. So, hopefully some good will come out of it. Kurtis said to tell my boss my dog ate my plane ticket…………….

Weather is Here, Wish you were Great

Second beautiful day here. Sunny and near 50 degrees and just a light breeze. This after a week of increasing winds that peaked at 40 mph day before yesterday and maybe in the 30`s or mid-20’s with the wind chill. Still, it was all dry weather.

I’m guessing there was no better place to be in Alaska today than here on the Slope. Makes me wonder if more people might actually live this far north- I mean settle in with a house and everything – if global warming continues, because this summer, at least, it’s been pretty darn nice.


Mark Stopha and Sara Hannan
Alaska Wild Salmon Company
Wild Salmon and Salmon Pet Treats
4455 N. Douglas Hwy
Juneau, AK 99801
907-463-3115
www.GoodSalmon.com